FAREWELL UNTIL SEPTEMBER!

Just a little blog today. I leave for Spain tomorrow and return at the end of August. It`s going to be fun to see the family in Spain and enjoy the sunshine, sea and sangria but I leave St.Petersburg with a tinge of regret as I feel I am just getting to grips with the City and fear I will have to start all over on my return. Ah well, the hardships of life!

PETERHOF

As it was the last day available for a trip, we decided to go to Peterhof yesterday. It was a perfect sunny and calm day for a hydrofoil trip down the Neva.

After 40 minutes we arrived at Peterhof only to find a very long queue for tickets to the park. These are the tickets you have to purchase before being able to get near the palace only to queue again for tickets for the palace. In fact at Peterhof you have to queue for separate tickets for everything and to make it more annoying it is actually quite expensive.

I would not feel quite so annoyed about the price if everyone paid the same, however, in Russia, there is a different, usually about three times higher price for foreigners. Why should foreigners pay more?

Putting these feelings behind us (we had plenty of time to do that whilst waiting in these interminable queues) we enjoyed the palace and gardens but decided that although Peterhof is by far the most famous of the outlying palaces it is not the greatest to visit. We enjoyed Tvarski Selo much more.

A WONDERFUL TOILET VISIT

I had a wonderful loo experience. After paying fifty pence I took my place in the queue only to be yelled at by the toilet cleaner who was annoyed at anyone who went near her bucket. It was difficult not to annoy her because her bucket was placed in the entrance to the cubicles and she was trying to insist that we lined up on one side of her bucket. These women in the queue actually allowed this bloody woman to boss them around! I was having none of it and after my turn in the loo I made sure I gave her bucket a kick to the side as I passed. She was hurling abuse at me as I left with a smile! I am learning to deal with these people!

All in all I think it would be better to choose a day that was not a Saturday at the height of the tourist season to visit Peterhof!

FAREWELL FOR THE SUMMER!

POLICEMEN AND BRIBES, WHOOPS I MEAN BRIDES

I thought the shot of the Hermitage was rather jolly. The other is a shot of the street where we live at present but not for much longer.

THE POLICEMAN`S LOT IS NOT A HAPPY ONE

It is quite difficult to know who is a policeman and who is not. I am convinced there are people who walk around this town dressed up as such just because once upon a time they had a uniform. Those are the most scary. You would think I could tell by the age of the uniform but unfortunately this is not so. Some police officers just look plain scruffy and not very professional. There are traffic police and another type or two all with different roles. There are a lot of them who seem to have little to do but stroll around the parks and public spaces. Their presence should be a comfort but I find it rather unsettling. I feel they would not do very much if they saw you being attacked but that they may apprehend you for doing absolutely nothing but minding your own business.

I have been told not to go anywhere without identification but not the original because it might get stolen and never hand over original documents to the police themselves! What!?

I was sitting in the summer gardens yesterday, minding my own business and reading a book. It was a beautiful day and I do not have a balcony at the flat. I am a middle aged woman dressed in a conventional manner with a Laura Ashley bag and sensible shoes, reading Nicholas and Alexandra on a park bench in the sunshine when along comes a policeman who stands right in front of me (am I allowed to read the above-mentioned book in Russia?), weighs me and the situation up and then walks away. I have to say my heart was in my mouth, I really thought he was going to ask me what I was doing there! He had a cosh in his hand and handcuffs and a gun in his back pocket. I hardly dared to look up until he walked off! Is this just a park keeper?

When I had lunch with the ladies the other day in Gatchina, we set up our picnic in the park on the steps of an old folly of sorts. A policeman came up to us and stood looking at our picnic before telling the Russian lady amongst us to leave as soon as we finished! Had our Russian lady not been there I think we would have offered him a chicken leg and a glass of champagne but we felt she would think it inappropriate.

ANTI-INTERROGATION CARD

This is the coolest thing I have ever had in my life and I intend to frame it when I leave Russia. If you have any trouble with officials or police or anybody, you pull out the card and call the 24 hour service and they send a minder (well, someone) out to you to deal with the problem! Quite an enterprising business idea!

Part of me really wants something to happen so I can use this facility and part of me thinks it might not work!

BRIDES EVERYWHERE!

It must be because it`s summer. This has to be the most romantic city in the world. Although I have been told that the guys don`t keep up the romance once married.

Having been made man and wife, they cruise the city with all their guests in limousines and with copious amounts of alcohol and have photos taken at every famous monument in the city. There are loads of these so by the time the guests have been dragged around all of them they look pretty much past their best! You see about fifty brides per day at the moment and many empty champagne bottles around the town. It astonishes me that all these smartly dressed people don`t take their empties away with them. They have a way to go in that respect.

GOSTINY DVOR

This is an experience of a shopping centre. It is really huge and houses just about every type of shop imaginable and is all indoors. I remember visiting this when I was here in about 1980. At that time there was absolutely nothing available and all the tinned food had plain labels just with the name of the content, e.g. peas. I can remember being amazed that this huge shopping palace had all the shops selling exactly the same items. All the clothes were the same in all the shops and the tinned food (because that was all there was) was piled up to make it look attractive but it was all the same! It really is wonderful to see Gostiny Dvor today, a symbol of devotion to consumerism.

PALACES AND BEACHES

One thing I knew coming to this city was that I was going to see a lot of palaces here but one thing I did not expect was the beach.

TSARSKOE SELO AND THE AMBER ROOM

Having started to read the story of Nicholas & Alexandra, I was very interested to visit the above mentioned town and it`s palaces.

We do not have a car so the only way to get to Tsarskoe Selo which is about 35 km out of town was by public transport. First metro then bus. There are several different types of buses here. Some have specific places they stop and others have a route they follow and you flag them down wherever you want and then shout when you want to get off. Good if a) you know where you want to get off and b) if you know what to shout. We knew neither of these things but jumped on one anyway.

People were helpful but it seemed they did not know where we should get off, resulting in our disembarking according to several passengers advice and then, at the driver`s insistence, getting back on! We eventually got to the palaces and park. This was greatly rewarded with a tour of the Catherine Palace and gardens and obviously the most famously, recently newly reconstructed, Amber Room. Now that is another book to read. It was all too much to see in one visit and there is still the Alexander palace to see as that is the one where Nicky and Alexi actually lived!

THE BEACH!

Mike and his ordinance survey map found us on a good old walk on Sunday from our present abode to the beach! A real sand beach, one of a few on the City`s islands. Krestovski Island is clearly a favourite of Mr. Putin`s as he has a home there. We didn`t find it this time but we will! We took a beer sitting in a bar on the beach and watched people play volley ball and racing up and down on jet skis, barbecuing and sunbathing. If I closed my eyes, I could have been in Marbella. There were even showers and loos. Across the water we could see the yacht club and several very nice boats alongside it. Clearly the place for the not so badly off. This will be visited again on a nice sunny day with a picnic and some sunblock! I`m not sure I would swim there although people seem happy to do so.

PRETTY GIRLS

There are only about three months of the year during which time the girls of the City can be seen without their coats on so I like to think that this is why their choice of clothing is so wacky, wild and rather more than a little revealing. If you are going to `bag a man` this is the time of year to do it!

I admire the skill they need to walk around all day in extremely high heels. I have been told that they also wear these heels in the winter. Apparently, the heels work well as sort of crampons that can be dug into the icy sidewalks.

GATCHINA

Yesterday saw me at a quilting exhibition hosted by the town of Gatchina, about an hour away from the City. Not being into quilting, I saw this as an opportunity to take a look at another town. It was a surprise to be blown over by the artistry of the work on display. What was wonderful was that some of the works were clearly made by scraps of material collected from old clothes etc. and not bought pieces from specialist shops.

This exhibition was in three locations. The first location we visited was in a tiny hamlet inside a village hall. They made us very welcome and when I needed to visit a loo I was escorted to another building, down several corridors to an extremely grim toilet with magazines for loo paper, where the escort, equally grim, waited patiently for me to pee before escorting me back! Loo visits are quite often exciting here!

The second location was in a small town, in an enormous neo classic style building, very run down but with incredible chandeliers and a really wonky parquet floor.

The third was the best. This was in a concrete, communist building which housed a lot of leatherette sofas, slashed and torn and a huge, magnificent mosaic of Lenin along with some wonderful symbols of the era. I hope I come across a lot of stuff like this because I think it is becoming more rare.

BLOG FODDER 2

SHOCKING

There are a lot of bare and dangerous electric wires around this city, even in heavily populated tourist parts.

BARKING

There are a lot of stray dogs in the parks. They are all of the large variety. However, they seem to spend most of the time sleeping and don`t seem to bother people at all, not even for food. Perhaps they are being well fed. They are not in bad condition. I will try to learn more about
them.

PULPING

A lot of expats here are involved in the paper pulping industry. One of my new friends who`s husband is so employed gave me a great tip. I don`t think it`s related to her husband`s industry but still.. When she has papers she wants to dispose of that have sensitive information on them, e.g. bank statements etc., she soaks them until they become mush! I never thought of that, it`s brilliant! One could make a sort of paper mache sculpture of it all.

LOST IN TRANSLATION

According to the St.Petersburg Times, our weekly English translated newspaper, a lot of new swimming pools are being constructed in St.Petersburg`s `bedroom communities`. Do they mean `dormitory towns`?!

In a German style restaurant visited at the weekend I was amused to note the reserved tables had a little sign on saying `this land is conquered`. A little strong I thought!

BLOGGER FODDER

BUYING A BOOK

It sounds like a fairly simple process. You walk in, browse and choose and pay and leave. Not in Russia!

First, I browsed. I found a book about the lives of the last Tsars. Super. I go to the counter with the book. The young lady tells me I can`t buy it there but that she will write a chit with the price and I will take the chit to the far side of the shop, pay, then return to her at the other end of the shop and she will check the receipt and give me the book. I did all of this happily and a little amused. She nearly had a fit when I put my receipt into my purse and not in the bag containing my purchase. `no! no!` it MUST go in there with the book!` I suppose this may be the preferred place for my receipt to prove I had not stolen the book, however, I was the only customer in the shop and the only people who would see me leave without paying would be her and the cashier and they had taken my money from me! They were hardly likely to chase me into the street to check if I had paid! I suppose old habits die hard.

IN THE STREET

There are some very unfortunate people on the streets begging for money. This is not unusual in any big City but they are amongst the more desperate I have seen, and that includes in India.

There is one lovely old lady who looks at least 100 years old. She is clean and she wears traditional peasant type clothes. She has a face full of character and as wrinkled as a very old prune. I imagine she has had a really tough life, WW2, the siege of Leningrad, communism etc. and there she is, day in and day out, hoping for some kindness from the passers by.

It seems dreadful that this generation who have suffered so much and have been thrown into this capitalist society of the modern world, who don`t stand a chance of being able to pay for themselves (any savings they had were completely and totally worthless after the fall of communism, through no fault of their own) are not looked after.

A WALK TO THE OFFICE

Mike suggested I walked with him to his office and he would show me another market and a shopping area. He actually has quite a long walk, more than I had realised across to Vasilyevskiy Island, however he likes it and it is good exercise. It won`t be possible during the long winter months so he is making the most of it now.

A BIGGER CHICKEN BREAST PLEASE

Deciding to use my `market Russian` I thought I had asked for the biggest saddle (the two breasts with the bone intact) of chicken. I realised later that what I actually asked for was a bigger saddle. Just a small difference, bigger - biggest, but enough to make her look at me as if to say, `how big would you expect the breast of a chicken to be?`

THEY MUST BE KIDDING!

The tomatoes looked good. Very large and juicy so I asked for two. They asked me for 200 roubles. That is about two pounds per tomato. I left without them. All the fruit and vegetables are expensive but sometimes I get the feeling I am being taken for an idiot. It is going to be expensive to eat healthily here but you cannot put a price on health. Why did I not get those tomatoes after all?

I have noticed that the fresh food markets are very quiet. The locals cannot afford them. There are a lot of cosseted foreigners with interpreters and drivers and people who are sent by the more wealthy local residents to do the shopping for them but not many people like me! I could use interpreters and drivers but what would I write about?!

CRUISE SHIPS

It is a wonderful walk back from Mike`s office, along the embankment of the Neva. The big cruise ships park down that end of St.Petersburg. They could not come up any further because although the bridges lift at night for an hour or so, the ships are too big and there is nowhere for them to park. I think this is a blessing. It is quite interesting to see them when there are as many as four huge ones in town. I know some of our friends will be arriving in St.Petersburg by ship! It is certainly an interesting way to arrive and you get a 48 hour pass without the need of a visa which saves a lot of hassle.

Walking around the City it is really easy to spot the ones who have come off a ship. So beware, the pickpockets can tell too!

THE PASTRY SHOP

Around the corner from our service flat is the most famous pastry house in St. Petersburg. Fortunately, I am not big on pastry but they look wonderful. You can buy a Salmon Pie I discovered today. Guess what we are having for dinner tomorrow.

A STEP INTO THE OTHER SIDE

NOTHING TO BUY

I have never been into a supermarket before and left without buying a single item. However, that is exactly what I did yesterday! There was nothing fanciable at all and this was in the new supermarket!

RIDICULOUSLY GORGEOUS RESTAURANT

So it was quite a lovely treat last night to go to just about the best restaurant in the City. After my fruitless search (I didn`t try too hard I must admit) for something fresh to buy, it was perfect that we had such a wonderful meal last night which should keep me going for the rest of the week. The restaurant sits above a casino and a large designer shop and has been serving the rich and famous for more than 200 years (what were we doing there?)

There is a first time for everything and for me I have never been through a metal detector in order to enter a restaurant before. What does that tell you about the rich and famous here? You can only imagine. At least we were able to enjoy our evening without fear of anything metal being undetected. I must admit when I first saw the detector I thought we were supposed to walk through it on the way out in case we had tried to steal the cutlery!

The food was wonderful, although it didn`t resemble anything I thought I had ordered but then it was very posh. I was given a cradle in which to place my (rather ordinary) handbag. Mike remarked that I should be careful that nobody ties it with string and drags it across the floor and away!

After a lovely evening we finally left, avoiding the metal detector on the way out, the stolen cutlery in our pockets remaining undetected! Kidding of course.

THE BLACK WINDOWED LIMOUSINES

Our company last night was a very charming man and his wife who happens to be CEO of a very important business here. After seeing me change my shoes for the walk home he was rather embarrassed to be met by not just a driver but also a bodyguard. When he saw my expression, he reassured me by explaining that he was very unlikely to be threatened physically but it is not unusual for people such as he to be led into a black windowed, nearby limousine for a spontaneous `business meeting`. A very nice way to put it, I thought.

It also occurred to me that perhaps we misunderstand the Russian `businessman`. After all, this CEO may be difficult to make an appointment with and the Russian `businessman` is very proud of his status and particularly his black windowed limousine and perhaps likes to use it as a sort of mobile office. He might possibly think it is quite an honour to be invited for a meeting inside his car!

REALITY CHECK

Yes well, back to normal today. I knew there was a weekly walk arranged every Wednesday morning by the International Women's Club so I thought I would go to the designated meeting place under the Pushkin statue and see what happened. Nothing happened. I wasn`t surprised and was quite prepared with map in hand to have a good old walk about by myself.

This was a good opportunity to find the food market over the side of town where I am going to be living after August. I got completely lost. The map was useless to me because it was in English and all the town signs are in Cyrillic. I didn`t have my specs with me either so couldn't see the map anyway. Nevsky Prospect is the biggest road in St.Petersburg but all the others looked pretty damned the same to me!

GOLD TEETH

I felt quite proud when I finally found the market. I bought some cherries as a reward from a man with a complete set of gold teeth. He was smiling brilliantly with his expensive mouth glowing as I paid a huge amount of money for my cherries! Not surprising he can afford gold teeth. Georgians love gold teeth.

A VISIT TO THE GEORGIAN MARKET

Just a couple of scenes at the Georgian market and a picture of my three new friends. Is it my imagination or is Nicky (the one in the middle) trying to Nick a watermelon?

MORE HEALTH TESTS

This is Mike posing before the Church of the Spilt blood. The other is me and several balloons on a river trip at about 11.30 p.m. heading towards the Gulf of Finland.

The title of this blog is referring to the fact that we have been today for a further HIV test. This is Mike`s third and my second. If the visa thing is not sorted within a given time frame we have to have a further test!