MORE BLOG FODDER

WINTER IS COMING!

Not a leaf on the trees. Grey, sunless skies. Lots of rain but it still isn't cold! I believe there has been snow in England already but not here in Russia! The sight of the icebreakers having returned to the Neva River assures me that it won't be long before we experience some serious winter weather.

NO TOURISTS!

A great time to visit as the bulk of tourists have disappeared leaving the streets of the City for the hardy. It's going to be far more fun visiting the museums during this season. Apparently, even the airport is bearable now.

RAIN AND BRIDES

I can't help feeling a little sorry for the brides of the season, actually, I feel sorry for them most of the time as the prospects of a long and happy marriage are pretty unlikely here. Most modern women seem to bring up their children alone. In fact, the brides don't usually look all that happy at their weddings and quite often they seem to be having their photographs taken alone whilst the groom is happily drinking with his buddies in the background. Very strange. This is not always the case, but I have to say that mostly, it is.

ON THE SUBJECT OF BOOZE

I heard an amazing comment on Russia Today. A Siberian supermarket chain manager was saying that although the bad economic situation is hitting sales of food, it is not really affecting the sales of alcohol at all. In fact he expects, from previous experience, for sales to actually increase as people have more financial difficulties! Unbelievable! Perhaps it's the same in other countries but it's hard to think of that as a good thing!

MICKY D's

To see that there were crowds of people queueing up for their burgers in MacDonald's on Saturday was quite surprising. You would have thought it was the first day of opening. It still seems to be somewhat of a thrill to people here. They all seem to have the right money in their hands whilst in the queue so have planned exactly what to order and how much it will be, sweet!

THE METRO

Mike has given up trying to get home during 'rush hour'. The metro is horrible! The pushing was so intense that he lost the back from his mobile phone in the squeeze the other day. Deloittes have flexi hours so most people come in after 9.30 in the morning and leave around 7.00pm. It's quite inconvenient for Mike as often his support staff aren't there when he needs them!

UMBRELLAS

People take no care to control their umbrellas here and you really have to watch out for your eyes when walking down a busy street in the rain. No kidding, it really is bad!

ROADWORKS

Not sure why but the workmen seem to go around the city digging up holes and filling them up again. If it happens to be on your street, you are probably going to lose your water for the day. Looking down these holes, it would appear that they could use a few jobs doing down there at the same time, so not really sure what happens there, however, it seems to keep an awful lot of men busy seven days a week.

THE MAN ON THE STAIRS

A couple of floors below us lives a man who likes to smoke on the landing. He has a chair set up and makes himself comfortable whilst filling up the building with the stench of fags. He doesn't use an ashtray but that is besides the point.

When Mike came back from the supermarket the other night with a tonne of water, I couldn't fit in the lift with him and the water and volunteered to walk up the stairs instead. As I approached the steps to the aforementioned landing, I could see 'the man' and to my utmost embarrassment, and to his mortification, he was dressed solely in his underpants! It was too late to turn around and it would almost have been more embarrassing to turn and flee so I continued up. The poor guy slightly turned away and I said 'good evening' behaving like I always walk past men on the corridor in their underwear. It was actually cringe worthy! The landing is not wide so I was really close to him!

A FEW POINTS OF NOTE

Never throw food away thoughtlessly as someone in the area will find it and eat it. I always try to put it where it is obvious and nicely packed. Problem is, if something is a 'bit off'' I worry that a poor soul will get sick.

The light bulb that Mike put in the lift a few weeks ago is still going strong!

I have really enjoyed all my adventures in Russia over the last few weeks and there are so many visual delights it's sometimes quite an overload. I am getting to find my way around town quite well now and building up confidence. Having said this, I am really looking forward to my trip to Spain now for my November break!

Back in December when we have the pleasure of a visit from Peter!

A DIFFERENT KIND OF BARGAIN

MY FABULOUS CHILDREN

I was unable to take pictures today of the topic of this blog so I thought I would post some pictures of my fabulous family (just in case they feel left out that I never mention them!) This blog is strictly about life in Russia, so sorry to all of you but you know I love you! Sorry David, it looks like a very old photo but we know it was this September. Sorry Ali, I don't have a more recent photo of you on this computer. Sorry Peter but who is that attached to the side of your head?

BACK TO THE SUBJECT

I had an opportunity today to go with Robyn, who lives in the same block as me, to a sale of religious paraphernalia (I hope that doesn't sound too irreverent?) Unfortunately, it would have been difficult to walk around inconspicuously taking photos.

This is a sale that takes place every year and the end of the tourist season (coincidence?) where all the churches take all their stuff that they normally sell at their church and pitch it all in for a cheaper price.

This was really interesting because the Russian Orthodox Church is very colourful and it uses a lot of symbolism, icons and images. I simply could not believe what was on sale. The hall was huge and absolutely packed with ordinary Russian people buying these things as though it was the first day of the Harrods sale.

It was possible to buy the full dress, robes and headdress for a priest! My friend informs me that the more wealthy may buy these for their priest. I couldn't imagine what other use they would have.

There were even a few onion domes for sale!

There were priests with queues of people lining up to buy a cheap, plastic replica of their favourite icon and the priest would bless them, kiss the plastic icon and hold it up to the real icon, kiss it and then take the money.

There was one stand where it was possible to pay a priest to say a prayer for you. I can't understand why that would work better. Surely the priest should do that for free?

Several things struck me today. The ordinary people there, mainly woman, really did represent the average Russian, not rich, not poor or homeless but the type of which there are several million. They are so very simple, making do with the very cheapest, simplest clothing, some poor souls in slippers, all of them wearing headscarves because they are so in awe of anything to do with the Church. How hard things really have been for the ordinary, peaceful people of Russia. Putin's Russia has had no impact on their lack of wealth whatsoever. Although there are so many things available in the shops now, I doubt that these women even look at those things and carry on managing how they always did. It's no wonder they turn to God, they really need all the help they can get.

Another thing that struck me is, just where was all this religion during the communist time? How on earth did they manage to hide their really deeply held beliefs for so many years?

As always in a crowd of people here, I can't help noticing how many people live their lives with some sort of disfiguring which could be so easy to fix in our modern world. There is no social justice in this country.

VYBORG

A FINNISH, RUSSIAN TOWN

Another early Saturday morning rising but it was a good day out and an alternative to spending the day look at the rain from the apartment window.

This was a two hour train ride from Finlandskaya Railway Station where they have a brilliant Lenin statue to the boarder of Finland where Vyborg sits. It was Finland until relatively recently.

We went to a beautiful natural park which was on a huge lake and really enjoyed the walk in the rain. This was a little bit like walking around Tarn Howes in the Lake District but without the surrounding mountains. Peaceful and beautiful and I felt it to be a real gift which was definitely the highlight for me.

Mike took some pictures of the port which some client is looking to invest in. It certainly looked as though it could use some investment.

The picture, in which you can see the port in the background, was taken from the top of the round tower of a tenth century castle. I couldn't photograph the castle because it was under renovation. Renovations everywhere!

FACTORY VISITS!

THE PORCELAIN FACTORY

It was wonderful for me to see the girls at work. Some of these plates and vases take weeks or months to complete. I think someone was working on a special commission for Mr. Putin although we didn't get to see the actual work in progress, note the photo on the desk! Unless he presented her with the photo as a thank you for services rendered. Would you have a picture of your President on your desk otherwise? They do a lot of special commissions for those who can afford it.

I was interested to see that they take a lot of the images directly from art books.

THE DOLL WORKSHOP

This was also an interesting visit and although they make a lot of the touristy dolls you can see everywhere they also make a lot of one off dolls which are real works of art. I was delighted to see the affectionate humour with which they portray the Russian going about his daily life.

FRIEND OF THE HERMITAGE

A GOOD BIRTHDAY GIFT!

As it was Mike's birthday a couple of weeks ago and I was struggling to think of anything to surprise him with so I thought membership of the Hermitage Friends Club would be a great idea, especially as I have all the time in the world to go there myself and the membership is for two people!

He was actually very pleased with the idea and the Sunday after his birthday we set off for the Hermitage armed with our Membership Card which entitles us to free entrance from a special side door so we don't have to queue with the crowds. All very nice, but that particular Sunday was free! No queues, no cost! Typical!

This membership also gives us twenty percent off any purchases and they have a beautiful book shop and gift shop. So friends, don't visit Hermitage without me, you get free entrance AND twenty percent off NOR do you have to queue with the hoards of tourists.

BURSTING FOR THE LOO

The following morning I was out for an exercise walk with a couple of women and two of us decided we needed a loo. We were passing the Hermitage at the time and in the courtyard they have one of those nasty portable loo affairs on stilts. They were charging 15 rubles for the privilege, so I flashed my Hermitage friends card and the attendant called over to the main office to see if we had to pay! She then came out of her cubby hole and opened the door for me to enter for free! This was hilarious, the phone call and the time was more costly than letting me in in the first place for free.

MORE CULTURAL MATTERS

It is going to take a lot of commitment to see all that the Hermitage has to offer and needs to be 'knocked off' in an organised manner.

On that particular 'free' Sunday we visited the Royal Apartments. We were quite surprised at how dusty all the decor was. We were looking more at the rooms that day but a couple of days later I went back to the Royal Apartments to look at the works of art and that is a different matter. Wonderful!

I was amused to find a painting by John Hoppner of George John 2nd Earl Spencer. Great, great grandfather of Lady Diana? I wonder if Charles Spencer knows it's there?

A VERY CULTURAL WEEK ALTOGETHER!

We went to see a new blockbuster of a movie just out here in Russia. It's called Admiral and it's all about Admiral Kolchak, he was in charge of the Whites fighting the Reds in the Bolshevik Revolution. It was a fantastic movie and it is a pity that it probably won't get shown outside of Russia. I didn't understand the dialogue very much at all but I still enjoyed it and pretty much knew where the plot was having read up on Kolchak beforehand. There is a very good trailer on U-Tube.

This made me realise that it is possible to enjoy a foreign movie provided the visual side is interesting enough and your imagination is good enough!

However, this was followed up by a trip to see the musical CHICAGO! I was looking forward to it based on my experience of ADMIRAL. It was awful. The price of the tickets were West End prices for an amateur dramatics production.

THE EXPAT LIFE IS A HARD ONE!

THE ALABAMA BABES!

The above ladies are affectionately known around town as the 'Alabama Babes'. They are a rare breed but come in a rather large group. Their husbands are here sorting out the paper industry. They all live in wonderful apartments, far out of our league, and get taken around by chauffeur driven cars everywhere. They don't walk very much due to very high heels and never go anywhere without at least a couple of hours preparation (i.e. makeup!). They are fantastic, warm and generous people and add a lot of value to the expat community.

ANYONE FOR FUR?

The picture was taken earlier this week at the British Consulate where we all been invited to a charity fashion show. It was a very Russian affair. It was all fur. Because they don't have issues with fur here (it's bloody cold in the winter!) they are able to take the product a step further than we have done in the West. These were designs we would have seen if we had continued using furs into this century. It was stunning actually but they were very, very expensive. I was, however, a bit shocked at one beautiful, young model sporting a particularly furry coat with a fox head on each side of her neck and rather a lot of tails hanging at the back!

BURST THE BUBBLE!

I went home on a bus. Enough to bring anyone back to earth. Nobody ever opens the windows and it gets so stuffy. I open a window if I am near enough but I get disapproved of for it. I think they must think the air outside is worse than the air inside but that can't be possible, can it?!

I think the City is due some new buses and I look forward to seeing them. The elderly really struggle to get on and off as the steps are SO steep and the doors open and close really viciously. I also feel they could keep them a lot cleaner inside. uggh!

I have developed a habit of washing my hands an awful lot here. I never sit down for coffee or lunch whilst out and about without a visit to the bathroom first. Although that in itself can be a hazard! Hope I am not giving the wrong impression, there are some really clean places too!

ARTS AND CRAFT GIRLS!

THE STICK AND GLUE BRIGADE

It really is like playschool but every Monday morning a group of women get together to literally stick and glue. At the moment we are busy making magnificent items to sell at the Christmas Bazaar. It's rather funny because none of us is great at this sort of thing but we are actually coming up with a lot of junk to sell. The photograph is of the girls at my flat a couple of weeks ago making cards. They were quite badly behaved but we got a lot done. It's all about companionship really! What a mess I had to clear after this lot.

DON'T PANIC!

Well, I must admit to nearly having a panic attack when I visited a friend's flat for a crafting session recently. Most people have interesting entrances to their apartments and it's not unusual to have difficulty getting in but this was horrible.

I had been told to buzz the buzzer for the flat having entered the first doorway at the entrance to the second doorway. I didn't bargain for the door behind me to close itself and to find myself stuck between the two doorways in a tiny vestibule, in complete darkness. They are so cheap in this country with light bulbs in hallways. My heart was beating rapidly as I told myself not to panic as I groped around in my bag for my mobile. Having found it I fumbled around with the light given off from the mobile, for the buzzer. It was like a 'house of horrors' situation because I couldn't find the buzzer and kept finding all sorts of horrible bits of old wooden panels etc. Eventually, I managed to call one of the women upstairs and they talked me through it and then someone came down to rescue me. It was really horrible and very claustrophobic! I will take a torch next time I go there.

HIGH SOCIETY!

WATCH OUT OSTRICHES!

Yes! They sell ostrich eggs at my local supermarket. Just casually plonked between the hens eggs. They cost about 30 pounds each but I guess you don't need more than one. I can't imagine breaking one open. How they are cooked I can't think. I would hate to come across a slightly formed foetus in one... yuck!!!

THE ENGLISH CLUB

I am not sure why they call it this because there are no English members. I think it just sounds rather posh to the 'high society' of St.Petersburg.

We were very lucky to be invited to the club's opening meeting of the season. It took place inside the Smolny Cathedral, which was never consecrated as the architect committed suicide before it's completion and has always been used for other purposes, making it a huge and imposing venue.

We started with drinks and little fairies, beautiful little girls in angel outfits bringing us flowers and curtsying (would never be allowed in Britain!). We then sat down for the most amazing performances of ballet, choir and a woman gymnast extraordinaire who was able to contort her body in more positions than exist! Just use your imagination! All this was for an audience of about 50.

A lot of the guests were the top representatives of the various museums and arts in the City and there were a lot of eminent and famous locals. An aspiring astronaut (he's booked his seat with Richard Branson and is about to start his training!), an Olympic champion figure ice skater who is now a famous trainer of several Olympic champions and the first 'sexologist' of Russia who has written several books on the subject (whatever sexology means, but I know they couldn't talk about it during the Soviet days) and appears on TV regularly, were but a few of the members.

I loved the ladies dress code at this function. They all looked gloriously dressed up in the old fashioned sense and there were a lot wearing mink stoles (yes!).

All in all, a lovely and memorable evening!

VELIKI NOVGOROD

WHAT A DAY!

The days are shortening fast now and there are not many weekends left before winter comes, so we have to make hay whilst the sun shines and get out to some interesting places whilst we can!

It has to be said that this was a fairly long day out, leaving home at six a.m. and catching the first bus out of the City. We had an interesting time buying the tickets. We were needing a little help to ask a couple of questions at the ticket booth and a nice elderly gentleman asked us if he could help. We were so surprised that this ordinary old man could speak such good English. Must have been in the KGB! Having said that, how judgemental can we get! It is rather a long time since the end of the Soviet Union, there is no reason why he couldn't have learned English since then! He did help us and we did catch the bus!

The main interest of this town is inside a walled part, known as the Kremlin. It is of great significance to the Russians and a UNESCO heritage site of some importance. The bell tower is the oldest in Russia.

I'm glad I have been there but a lot of it was under reconstruction and it took so long to get there and back that I don't think we will return.

TO BATTLESHIPS

THE AURORA

I was quite surprised at this battleship that fired the first shot of the Revolution. It was really rather nice! Walking over British battleships is always quite a claustrophobic experience whereas the Aurora seems to have much higher rooms (cabins?). This could just be because the Russians are a tall race. I was also impressed with the excellent condition the ship is kept in. It's extremely well painted and looked after, every inch of it. Some navy personnel live on it and presumably take care of it.

Whilst the very boring tour guide walked us over the engine rooms we took the opportunity to escape and explore the state rooms which are presumably the same as they always have been with a wonderful bronze of Lenin presiding over the dining room.

There are wonderful emblems of communism and propaganda around the ship.

INDIAN SUMMER?

AUTUMN IN PAVLOVSK

As it can be seen from the photo, absolutely beautiful, and I can honestly report that the weather has for the most part been like this for half of September and up to 7th October (today!) I am sure it can't stay like this for much longer.

IN A JAM

The downside of the trip to Pavlovsk was the traffic getting out of the City. It was awful. We stood up on a bus for the best part of two hours and there was no chance of getting off as we were in the middle of a real highway. It was a great relief to arrive at the palace grounds and I was happy to walk in the gardens and not to go into the palace itself. Fresh air was the order of the day.