DARKNESS AND LIGHTS

SHORT DAYS AND LONG NIGHTS

The daylight hours are now between 10.00 am to around 3.30, but what I hadn't realised is how dull it would be between the daylight hours, making it very difficult to get enough light inside. I think we need to pick up some stronger light bulbs! It's quite hard not to turn over and go back to sleep in the mornings and very easy to hang around in one's pyjamas until at least 10.30! However, it does make lots of lovely hours to indulge in all my indoor hobbies (don't ask!) and a lot of time to socialise amongst all the great people I have met here.

PETER' VISIT

How good it was to have our son here last week. I really enjoyed hitting the bricks with him and showing him around town, even plucked up the courage to go on the metro! Of course, this wasn't too difficult because he would certainly not get lost even if I did. I am finding myself a lot more confident using the public transport around town these days.

We walked around the summer gardens to find all the statues boxed up for the winter and around Mars Field to find tramps laying on the ground around the Eternal Flame for the Lost Soldiers, just to keep warm. I can't see how anyone can object to this as they surely need the warmth but we did see the police moving them on.

The market people are really struggling to sell things and it is possible to knock down the price considerably. However, I feel so mean doing this as I know they find it really hard to make any money. I never realised before how bad it feels to get a real bargain. I try to be really fair so they feel happy and I feel happy (I am a silly sucker really, I am sure they feel happier than me with the final deal!)

Whilst buying Peter a hat for his ski trip it was important to keep in mind that his trip was going to be in Western Europe as the choice of fur was ranging from fox to raccoon and in between some pretty outrageous choices! Having tried several Davy Crockett styles with tails etc. he finally settled for a black rabbit which could be taken for faux!

THE SCOTTISH BALL!

The night after Peter left we went to a Scottish ball. It's amazing, everywhere I have ever lived there is always a Scottish ball and a large number of locals seem to have kilts ready for the occasion. It was really fun to dance with lots of Russians in kilts who really knew how to 'Strip the Willow'. Rather a lot of fine whiskey was consumed that night (not by me, I hasten to add!)

THE INCIDENT IN THE 24 HOUR SHOP

Well, this isn't a huge incident to mention but a typical example of what one has to deal with regularly here.

I was having a luncheon party and needed to nip out very early in the morning, whilst still dark, to buy bread and a couple of other things. It was cold so I put on my big coat and hat and looked pretty unrecognisable as a foreigner.

When I came to pay I handed a note to the girl on the till and she looked away from me and rudely slapped the plastic counter in front of her to indicate that is where I was to put the note and not hand it to her. Being annoyed, I persisted in trying to hand it to her whilst muttering expletives under my breathe. She tapped the counter again! I was in half a mind to tell her to stuff the goods 'where the sun don't shine' but I needed those items and had to swallow my pride and put the money on the counter. She made me feel like some sort of 'down and out' and I struggled not to allow that incident to really get to me. Then I realised that she will probably always be miserable and work in that nasty little shop and I felt a whole lot better!

007 JAMES BOND PARTY

What a fun night we had at the British Consulate. Although I did feel slightly idiotic to start with. I had decided to dress as a spy, wearing one of Mike's suit jackets and bow ties with a huge spy glass in my pocket. Walking into the room to find all the other women who were nearly all Russian at that point, dressed absolutely beautifully as 'bond girls' was a bit mortifying to say the least. However, a couple of glasses of red put that problem to rest and the remainder of the evening was enjoyed immensely, not least sitting on the Harley Davidson and enjoying the dancing with men and also some women who seemed to find my outfit attractive! What an experience!

LEAVING FOR CHRISTMAS

Well, it doesn't seem long since my last trip out of Russia but I am really looking forward to Christmas and New Year and I will be returning to the blog in February! Bye for now!

DINNER AT CATHERINE PALACE!

WHAT A NIGHT

We were delighted to be invited to a private dinner at the Catherine Palace during Peter's visit and were able to take him too! This was a most magical evening. Unfortunately, it decided to snow extremely heavily as we made our way out of town that evening. However, Mike had decided to drive himself and borrowed the company Land rover and we arrived intact, about half an hour early.

I wasn't terribly happy, having carefully dressed in my 'glad rags' for this grand occasion, to have to don walking socks and boots and a heavy coat topped with a rather ugly hat and big gloves, however, the walk from the gates and up the drive to the castle was about 10 minutes in the deep snow and it was absolutely freezing. We were sure that it would have been possible to drive up to the entrance and drop off, leaving only the unfortunate driver to walk the walk but we didn't really know how to ask the security about this and all in all it seemed easier to walk.
On the first attempt to enter the grand gates, we were rebuffed and told we had to wait half an hour, so... back to the car, already covered in snow. This was when Mike took leave of his feet on black ice which was completely hidden under snow. It was so sudden, he landed flat on his back leaving Peter and I in utter shock as we looked at him prostrate in the snow, when we realised he wasn't hurt it was very hard not to laugh, so we did.

Our second attempt to enter the gates was successful and we were welcomed through with a full trumpet fanfare! The walk up to the palace was pure magic, with huge snowflakes falling and burning torches lining the walkway. In the distance, the palace was glowing with warm light and promises of a wonderful evening ahead!


THE AMBER ROOM

The beauty of this famous room is evident from the picture above. It was wonderful to see it without the usual crowds of tourists.


PLEASE NOTE!
I accidentally uploaded an image of Ambleside Church in the English Lake District, looks as cold as Russia doesn't it?!

MORE BLOG FODDER

WINTER IS COMING!

Not a leaf on the trees. Grey, sunless skies. Lots of rain but it still isn't cold! I believe there has been snow in England already but not here in Russia! The sight of the icebreakers having returned to the Neva River assures me that it won't be long before we experience some serious winter weather.

NO TOURISTS!

A great time to visit as the bulk of tourists have disappeared leaving the streets of the City for the hardy. It's going to be far more fun visiting the museums during this season. Apparently, even the airport is bearable now.

RAIN AND BRIDES

I can't help feeling a little sorry for the brides of the season, actually, I feel sorry for them most of the time as the prospects of a long and happy marriage are pretty unlikely here. Most modern women seem to bring up their children alone. In fact, the brides don't usually look all that happy at their weddings and quite often they seem to be having their photographs taken alone whilst the groom is happily drinking with his buddies in the background. Very strange. This is not always the case, but I have to say that mostly, it is.

ON THE SUBJECT OF BOOZE

I heard an amazing comment on Russia Today. A Siberian supermarket chain manager was saying that although the bad economic situation is hitting sales of food, it is not really affecting the sales of alcohol at all. In fact he expects, from previous experience, for sales to actually increase as people have more financial difficulties! Unbelievable! Perhaps it's the same in other countries but it's hard to think of that as a good thing!

MICKY D's

To see that there were crowds of people queueing up for their burgers in MacDonald's on Saturday was quite surprising. You would have thought it was the first day of opening. It still seems to be somewhat of a thrill to people here. They all seem to have the right money in their hands whilst in the queue so have planned exactly what to order and how much it will be, sweet!

THE METRO

Mike has given up trying to get home during 'rush hour'. The metro is horrible! The pushing was so intense that he lost the back from his mobile phone in the squeeze the other day. Deloittes have flexi hours so most people come in after 9.30 in the morning and leave around 7.00pm. It's quite inconvenient for Mike as often his support staff aren't there when he needs them!

UMBRELLAS

People take no care to control their umbrellas here and you really have to watch out for your eyes when walking down a busy street in the rain. No kidding, it really is bad!

ROADWORKS

Not sure why but the workmen seem to go around the city digging up holes and filling them up again. If it happens to be on your street, you are probably going to lose your water for the day. Looking down these holes, it would appear that they could use a few jobs doing down there at the same time, so not really sure what happens there, however, it seems to keep an awful lot of men busy seven days a week.

THE MAN ON THE STAIRS

A couple of floors below us lives a man who likes to smoke on the landing. He has a chair set up and makes himself comfortable whilst filling up the building with the stench of fags. He doesn't use an ashtray but that is besides the point.

When Mike came back from the supermarket the other night with a tonne of water, I couldn't fit in the lift with him and the water and volunteered to walk up the stairs instead. As I approached the steps to the aforementioned landing, I could see 'the man' and to my utmost embarrassment, and to his mortification, he was dressed solely in his underpants! It was too late to turn around and it would almost have been more embarrassing to turn and flee so I continued up. The poor guy slightly turned away and I said 'good evening' behaving like I always walk past men on the corridor in their underwear. It was actually cringe worthy! The landing is not wide so I was really close to him!

A FEW POINTS OF NOTE

Never throw food away thoughtlessly as someone in the area will find it and eat it. I always try to put it where it is obvious and nicely packed. Problem is, if something is a 'bit off'' I worry that a poor soul will get sick.

The light bulb that Mike put in the lift a few weeks ago is still going strong!

I have really enjoyed all my adventures in Russia over the last few weeks and there are so many visual delights it's sometimes quite an overload. I am getting to find my way around town quite well now and building up confidence. Having said this, I am really looking forward to my trip to Spain now for my November break!

Back in December when we have the pleasure of a visit from Peter!

A DIFFERENT KIND OF BARGAIN

MY FABULOUS CHILDREN

I was unable to take pictures today of the topic of this blog so I thought I would post some pictures of my fabulous family (just in case they feel left out that I never mention them!) This blog is strictly about life in Russia, so sorry to all of you but you know I love you! Sorry David, it looks like a very old photo but we know it was this September. Sorry Ali, I don't have a more recent photo of you on this computer. Sorry Peter but who is that attached to the side of your head?

BACK TO THE SUBJECT

I had an opportunity today to go with Robyn, who lives in the same block as me, to a sale of religious paraphernalia (I hope that doesn't sound too irreverent?) Unfortunately, it would have been difficult to walk around inconspicuously taking photos.

This is a sale that takes place every year and the end of the tourist season (coincidence?) where all the churches take all their stuff that they normally sell at their church and pitch it all in for a cheaper price.

This was really interesting because the Russian Orthodox Church is very colourful and it uses a lot of symbolism, icons and images. I simply could not believe what was on sale. The hall was huge and absolutely packed with ordinary Russian people buying these things as though it was the first day of the Harrods sale.

It was possible to buy the full dress, robes and headdress for a priest! My friend informs me that the more wealthy may buy these for their priest. I couldn't imagine what other use they would have.

There were even a few onion domes for sale!

There were priests with queues of people lining up to buy a cheap, plastic replica of their favourite icon and the priest would bless them, kiss the plastic icon and hold it up to the real icon, kiss it and then take the money.

There was one stand where it was possible to pay a priest to say a prayer for you. I can't understand why that would work better. Surely the priest should do that for free?

Several things struck me today. The ordinary people there, mainly woman, really did represent the average Russian, not rich, not poor or homeless but the type of which there are several million. They are so very simple, making do with the very cheapest, simplest clothing, some poor souls in slippers, all of them wearing headscarves because they are so in awe of anything to do with the Church. How hard things really have been for the ordinary, peaceful people of Russia. Putin's Russia has had no impact on their lack of wealth whatsoever. Although there are so many things available in the shops now, I doubt that these women even look at those things and carry on managing how they always did. It's no wonder they turn to God, they really need all the help they can get.

Another thing that struck me is, just where was all this religion during the communist time? How on earth did they manage to hide their really deeply held beliefs for so many years?

As always in a crowd of people here, I can't help noticing how many people live their lives with some sort of disfiguring which could be so easy to fix in our modern world. There is no social justice in this country.

VYBORG

A FINNISH, RUSSIAN TOWN

Another early Saturday morning rising but it was a good day out and an alternative to spending the day look at the rain from the apartment window.

This was a two hour train ride from Finlandskaya Railway Station where they have a brilliant Lenin statue to the boarder of Finland where Vyborg sits. It was Finland until relatively recently.

We went to a beautiful natural park which was on a huge lake and really enjoyed the walk in the rain. This was a little bit like walking around Tarn Howes in the Lake District but without the surrounding mountains. Peaceful and beautiful and I felt it to be a real gift which was definitely the highlight for me.

Mike took some pictures of the port which some client is looking to invest in. It certainly looked as though it could use some investment.

The picture, in which you can see the port in the background, was taken from the top of the round tower of a tenth century castle. I couldn't photograph the castle because it was under renovation. Renovations everywhere!

FACTORY VISITS!

THE PORCELAIN FACTORY

It was wonderful for me to see the girls at work. Some of these plates and vases take weeks or months to complete. I think someone was working on a special commission for Mr. Putin although we didn't get to see the actual work in progress, note the photo on the desk! Unless he presented her with the photo as a thank you for services rendered. Would you have a picture of your President on your desk otherwise? They do a lot of special commissions for those who can afford it.

I was interested to see that they take a lot of the images directly from art books.

THE DOLL WORKSHOP

This was also an interesting visit and although they make a lot of the touristy dolls you can see everywhere they also make a lot of one off dolls which are real works of art. I was delighted to see the affectionate humour with which they portray the Russian going about his daily life.

FRIEND OF THE HERMITAGE

A GOOD BIRTHDAY GIFT!

As it was Mike's birthday a couple of weeks ago and I was struggling to think of anything to surprise him with so I thought membership of the Hermitage Friends Club would be a great idea, especially as I have all the time in the world to go there myself and the membership is for two people!

He was actually very pleased with the idea and the Sunday after his birthday we set off for the Hermitage armed with our Membership Card which entitles us to free entrance from a special side door so we don't have to queue with the crowds. All very nice, but that particular Sunday was free! No queues, no cost! Typical!

This membership also gives us twenty percent off any purchases and they have a beautiful book shop and gift shop. So friends, don't visit Hermitage without me, you get free entrance AND twenty percent off NOR do you have to queue with the hoards of tourists.

BURSTING FOR THE LOO

The following morning I was out for an exercise walk with a couple of women and two of us decided we needed a loo. We were passing the Hermitage at the time and in the courtyard they have one of those nasty portable loo affairs on stilts. They were charging 15 rubles for the privilege, so I flashed my Hermitage friends card and the attendant called over to the main office to see if we had to pay! She then came out of her cubby hole and opened the door for me to enter for free! This was hilarious, the phone call and the time was more costly than letting me in in the first place for free.

MORE CULTURAL MATTERS

It is going to take a lot of commitment to see all that the Hermitage has to offer and needs to be 'knocked off' in an organised manner.

On that particular 'free' Sunday we visited the Royal Apartments. We were quite surprised at how dusty all the decor was. We were looking more at the rooms that day but a couple of days later I went back to the Royal Apartments to look at the works of art and that is a different matter. Wonderful!

I was amused to find a painting by John Hoppner of George John 2nd Earl Spencer. Great, great grandfather of Lady Diana? I wonder if Charles Spencer knows it's there?

A VERY CULTURAL WEEK ALTOGETHER!

We went to see a new blockbuster of a movie just out here in Russia. It's called Admiral and it's all about Admiral Kolchak, he was in charge of the Whites fighting the Reds in the Bolshevik Revolution. It was a fantastic movie and it is a pity that it probably won't get shown outside of Russia. I didn't understand the dialogue very much at all but I still enjoyed it and pretty much knew where the plot was having read up on Kolchak beforehand. There is a very good trailer on U-Tube.

This made me realise that it is possible to enjoy a foreign movie provided the visual side is interesting enough and your imagination is good enough!

However, this was followed up by a trip to see the musical CHICAGO! I was looking forward to it based on my experience of ADMIRAL. It was awful. The price of the tickets were West End prices for an amateur dramatics production.

THE EXPAT LIFE IS A HARD ONE!

THE ALABAMA BABES!

The above ladies are affectionately known around town as the 'Alabama Babes'. They are a rare breed but come in a rather large group. Their husbands are here sorting out the paper industry. They all live in wonderful apartments, far out of our league, and get taken around by chauffeur driven cars everywhere. They don't walk very much due to very high heels and never go anywhere without at least a couple of hours preparation (i.e. makeup!). They are fantastic, warm and generous people and add a lot of value to the expat community.

ANYONE FOR FUR?

The picture was taken earlier this week at the British Consulate where we all been invited to a charity fashion show. It was a very Russian affair. It was all fur. Because they don't have issues with fur here (it's bloody cold in the winter!) they are able to take the product a step further than we have done in the West. These were designs we would have seen if we had continued using furs into this century. It was stunning actually but they were very, very expensive. I was, however, a bit shocked at one beautiful, young model sporting a particularly furry coat with a fox head on each side of her neck and rather a lot of tails hanging at the back!

BURST THE BUBBLE!

I went home on a bus. Enough to bring anyone back to earth. Nobody ever opens the windows and it gets so stuffy. I open a window if I am near enough but I get disapproved of for it. I think they must think the air outside is worse than the air inside but that can't be possible, can it?!

I think the City is due some new buses and I look forward to seeing them. The elderly really struggle to get on and off as the steps are SO steep and the doors open and close really viciously. I also feel they could keep them a lot cleaner inside. uggh!

I have developed a habit of washing my hands an awful lot here. I never sit down for coffee or lunch whilst out and about without a visit to the bathroom first. Although that in itself can be a hazard! Hope I am not giving the wrong impression, there are some really clean places too!

ARTS AND CRAFT GIRLS!

THE STICK AND GLUE BRIGADE

It really is like playschool but every Monday morning a group of women get together to literally stick and glue. At the moment we are busy making magnificent items to sell at the Christmas Bazaar. It's rather funny because none of us is great at this sort of thing but we are actually coming up with a lot of junk to sell. The photograph is of the girls at my flat a couple of weeks ago making cards. They were quite badly behaved but we got a lot done. It's all about companionship really! What a mess I had to clear after this lot.

DON'T PANIC!

Well, I must admit to nearly having a panic attack when I visited a friend's flat for a crafting session recently. Most people have interesting entrances to their apartments and it's not unusual to have difficulty getting in but this was horrible.

I had been told to buzz the buzzer for the flat having entered the first doorway at the entrance to the second doorway. I didn't bargain for the door behind me to close itself and to find myself stuck between the two doorways in a tiny vestibule, in complete darkness. They are so cheap in this country with light bulbs in hallways. My heart was beating rapidly as I told myself not to panic as I groped around in my bag for my mobile. Having found it I fumbled around with the light given off from the mobile, for the buzzer. It was like a 'house of horrors' situation because I couldn't find the buzzer and kept finding all sorts of horrible bits of old wooden panels etc. Eventually, I managed to call one of the women upstairs and they talked me through it and then someone came down to rescue me. It was really horrible and very claustrophobic! I will take a torch next time I go there.

HIGH SOCIETY!

WATCH OUT OSTRICHES!

Yes! They sell ostrich eggs at my local supermarket. Just casually plonked between the hens eggs. They cost about 30 pounds each but I guess you don't need more than one. I can't imagine breaking one open. How they are cooked I can't think. I would hate to come across a slightly formed foetus in one... yuck!!!

THE ENGLISH CLUB

I am not sure why they call it this because there are no English members. I think it just sounds rather posh to the 'high society' of St.Petersburg.

We were very lucky to be invited to the club's opening meeting of the season. It took place inside the Smolny Cathedral, which was never consecrated as the architect committed suicide before it's completion and has always been used for other purposes, making it a huge and imposing venue.

We started with drinks and little fairies, beautiful little girls in angel outfits bringing us flowers and curtsying (would never be allowed in Britain!). We then sat down for the most amazing performances of ballet, choir and a woman gymnast extraordinaire who was able to contort her body in more positions than exist! Just use your imagination! All this was for an audience of about 50.

A lot of the guests were the top representatives of the various museums and arts in the City and there were a lot of eminent and famous locals. An aspiring astronaut (he's booked his seat with Richard Branson and is about to start his training!), an Olympic champion figure ice skater who is now a famous trainer of several Olympic champions and the first 'sexologist' of Russia who has written several books on the subject (whatever sexology means, but I know they couldn't talk about it during the Soviet days) and appears on TV regularly, were but a few of the members.

I loved the ladies dress code at this function. They all looked gloriously dressed up in the old fashioned sense and there were a lot wearing mink stoles (yes!).

All in all, a lovely and memorable evening!

VELIKI NOVGOROD

WHAT A DAY!

The days are shortening fast now and there are not many weekends left before winter comes, so we have to make hay whilst the sun shines and get out to some interesting places whilst we can!

It has to be said that this was a fairly long day out, leaving home at six a.m. and catching the first bus out of the City. We had an interesting time buying the tickets. We were needing a little help to ask a couple of questions at the ticket booth and a nice elderly gentleman asked us if he could help. We were so surprised that this ordinary old man could speak such good English. Must have been in the KGB! Having said that, how judgemental can we get! It is rather a long time since the end of the Soviet Union, there is no reason why he couldn't have learned English since then! He did help us and we did catch the bus!

The main interest of this town is inside a walled part, known as the Kremlin. It is of great significance to the Russians and a UNESCO heritage site of some importance. The bell tower is the oldest in Russia.

I'm glad I have been there but a lot of it was under reconstruction and it took so long to get there and back that I don't think we will return.

TO BATTLESHIPS

THE AURORA

I was quite surprised at this battleship that fired the first shot of the Revolution. It was really rather nice! Walking over British battleships is always quite a claustrophobic experience whereas the Aurora seems to have much higher rooms (cabins?). This could just be because the Russians are a tall race. I was also impressed with the excellent condition the ship is kept in. It's extremely well painted and looked after, every inch of it. Some navy personnel live on it and presumably take care of it.

Whilst the very boring tour guide walked us over the engine rooms we took the opportunity to escape and explore the state rooms which are presumably the same as they always have been with a wonderful bronze of Lenin presiding over the dining room.

There are wonderful emblems of communism and propaganda around the ship.

INDIAN SUMMER?

AUTUMN IN PAVLOVSK

As it can be seen from the photo, absolutely beautiful, and I can honestly report that the weather has for the most part been like this for half of September and up to 7th October (today!) I am sure it can't stay like this for much longer.

IN A JAM

The downside of the trip to Pavlovsk was the traffic getting out of the City. It was awful. We stood up on a bus for the best part of two hours and there was no chance of getting off as we were in the middle of a real highway. It was a great relief to arrive at the palace grounds and I was happy to walk in the gardens and not to go into the palace itself. Fresh air was the order of the day.

LATE SEPTEMBER AND BACK IN THE SWING!

BROWN WATER RUNS DEEP

I think I mentioned before that we have a few water issues here. Well apart from the fact that we can't drink it and that it requires 10 or 15 minutes running in the mornings to receive hot water, we now have BROWN water issues. Well, I mean really brown, we always had a tinge of the Vandyke colour favoured by water colour artists but now it runs the colour of the type of tea favoured by builders, you could stand a spoon up in it!

I am lying actually, to have more impact. The truth is that it isn't all that bad NOW, but when we returned last weekend from our trip it was unusable. I was really reluctant to shower (of course I did but...), it was not possible to do the much overdue laundry and the problem was getting to be a larger issue.

On Monday, setting out on my morning errands, I was perturbed to see a wide, rather worn, canvas/plastic pipe leading down to a mains drain in our courtyard, with an enormous amount of bubbling and boiling pressurised water surging through it's precarious body, causing enough pressurised steam to run a train. This scene was taking place between me and the bins where I was supposed to dump my large bags of household rubbish.

I considered dumping my kitchen waste somewhere in a street bin but then raised the courage to pass to the bins. A vivid picture went through my head of this pipe, under enormous strain, suddenly popping up out of the mains drain and waving around in huge circles furiously blasting out scalding gallons of water over any idiot happening to be in the way and that was me done for. The workmen supposedly in charge of this event seemed to be unworried smoking their heads off and not paying attention but I'm sure this wouldn't be allowed anywhere half civilised.

CATS ON A HOT TIN ROOF

I decided to go along to a neighbour's flat for a coffee with the ladies who were spending the morning 'crafting' to take a look at their works.

My neighbour has the most brilliant view from her kitchen window which includes the Church of the Spilt Blood (that is the church in the picture above). However she also sees most of the rooftops on our side of town. It was astonishing to be able to see people up on the tiles going about their business. Some were working and repairing or seeing to satellite dishes but others seem to be up there purely for the heck of it! I suppose if you don't have a garden or balcony and it is a sunny day, why not? Well, I won't be caught on our roof. I do sometimes hear footsteps above us and we are on the top floor so someone goes up there.

My neighbour has seen someone slip down a roof before but fortunately the fella was saved.

A SMALL VICTORY FOR ME OVER THE DOMESTIC HELP

Upon my return to my flat after an eventful morning I found my cleaner standing by the door in her coat waiting to leave (it was ten minutes before 12 so I wasn't late for her). This is going to be an interesting relationship. I am a bit weedy when it comes to household help and they usually get the better of me but this time I am determined to hold my ground. I think this change of attitude has come about because she is SO bold.

My windows needed cleaning. She has three hours to clean my flat. I can do it in two actually. I asked her very nicely if she would clean the three dirtiest windows and not to worry about the bath as we haven't used it since her last visit (I told you about the colour of the water, it makes taking a bath pretty unappealing!). She gazed steadily at me and said, "No, I will clean two". I gazed steadily back and said (with my weedy heart gathering pace), "No, I want you to clean three'. To which she replied "No, two!" yet again! I realised that this was a 'make or break' moment, so I held my ground firmly and decided that if she was going to be this difficult she could walk. She acquiesced and cleaned three. I had to go out for the morning in case I had created an atmosphere!

So that is why I was surprised to see she had finished before 12 o'clock. I should have asked her to clean four windows! Now that would be too bold!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!

Birthdays are fun at the best of times and this one was no exception. When one is living abroad a birthday can be enough to make you a little homesick for the family you love but expats always find a sort of substitute family amongst themselves and rally to any occasion that demands giving someone a little extra attention and this was the case on my birthday!

Four of us enjoyed a lovely lunch in a Georgian restaurant. Really tasty food it has to be said. The Georgians have this special bread which is a bit like a pizza base covered in delicious dripping cheese. Not normally my thing but this was particularly good. There was a heavy use of fragrant herbs, particularly coriander. My trout was simply fried and filled with a wonderful stuffing of walnuts and garlic and spices. This restaurant is local to us and I am sure we will frequent it.

NEARLY MUGGED AGAIN!

Walking around Nevsky Prospect after lunch, three of us, chatting merrily and dawdling along, looking in shop windows, forgetting to be vigilant, I suddenly became uncomfortable with the three men who seemed to be trying to pass us on both sides but were taking too much time to pass. One moment there were just the three of us girls and the next there seemed to be six people. I could tell from the body language that it wasn't right. I stared straight at one of the guys and he made no eye contact, neither were they making a connection to each other. That was a give away to me. I quickly walked slightly ahead and said to the other two "come on QUICK! I am not happy with this". They realised immediately and responded. The guys knew we were onto them and still made no eye contact, pretending they hadn't noticed anything.

It's not a good idea to idly walk around this town and forget you are a foreigner in Russia or you will lose your purse!

THE OYSTER BAR

Because I had enjoyed lunch I decided that I would walk to the oyster bar that evening where I was meeting Mike for my birthday supper. I thought I could work off some calories before indulging again.

It took me a full hour walking really fast. When I arrived I was completely knackered! I did stop to take the lovely photo above though.

I am not going to mention every dinner in which I indulge but what was noteworthy at this restaurant was the girls...

HERE COME THE GIRLS!

As we sat enjoying our first glass of wine in walked three incredibly tarted up ladies. I tend to distinguish levels of 'class' by the height of the heels but I am probably totally wrong as I am going by my own culture, Russia is different! These girls were in incredibly high heels and definitely in the money. I don't know what their profession is but they sat down to enjoy a dozen oysters each, flown in from France and costing about £100 for half a dozen! Mike fancied they were prostitutes but they were just as likely to be the WAGS of the local mafia guys.

Several other groups of girls came to the restaurant that night all dressed in a similar fashion. We enjoyed the evening immensely, although I did feel rather drably dressed myself!

ON THE SUBJECT OF GIRLS

There are not enough men to go around in Russia and the girls do all they can to attract a man.

In discussions with my expat girlfriends we have commented on this problem as we all realise that foreign men are a very attractive proposition, especially middle-aged business men! We have all been in situations where you feel the eyes of a girl on you and your husband and they are thinking 'what is a man of such position doing with a woman as old as that!!!' It is the name of the game here and is quite dangerous for some unsuspecting couples.

It is important for every expat couple to have discussions about this and to make sure the husbands recognise the danger and not mistake it for an attractive option!

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

One of the less delightful aspects of living in a Russian apartment block is the all pervading stench of cabbage which one's neighbours seem to have constantly on the boil. At least I like to think it's cabbage. Mike thinks someone died in one of the apartments about a year ago and hasn't been discovered yet. I will keep you posted on that one.

On the subject of unpleasant things, I opened a tin of sardines for my lunch the other day. They are not like sardines I have tasted before and are extremely unpleasant. However, having opened them, I didn't really know what to do with them. I realise now, too late, that I should have chucked them down the loo however, at the time I thought the only way to get rid of them was to eat them. I soaked them in vinegar to try to disguise their flavour and put a tonne of salt and pepper on them. I ate them on top of crispbread without letting them touch the side of my mouth. Lesson, don't buy Russian tinned sardines.

THE BUSINESSMAN

I love the uniform of the 'businessman' in Russia. Italian suit and black tee-shirt, expensive watch, smart haircut, no smile and always a black, dark-windowed four-wheel drive. The amusing thing is they can't drive for toffees. At least, they can't park. I know this because I watch a lot of 'dark-windowed, four wheel drive activity' from my flat window (discretely of course) and they cannot park into a space! I assume this is because they can probably buy their driving license and don't take a driving test. I think you can buy most documents here.

ON THE SUBJECT OF BABIES AND WIND

Nicky continues to receive helpful advise in terms of caring for her baby. For example she should keep her in one country for at least the first three years so she can acclimatise. She should give her vitamin D and the nurse gave her something to stick up the baby's bottom for wind! (is that a cork Nicky?)

24 SEPTEMBER AND LOOK AT THE SKY!

It is such a gorgeous day today that I simply had to go out for a very long walk therefore haven't had the time I thought I would yet to blog however, I couldn't resist popping this picture on just to show the sky. I am sure I will need my thermal underwear soon but at the present it is really lovely weather!

ALL ABOARD THE LOVE BOAT

I think the sunset on the outset of this weekend boat trip speaks for itself. I took so many pictures as I have never seen a more beautiful sky. We were sitting in the dining room at the time and this was taken through the window of the boat just as it embarked on its journey. The timing was absolutely perfect to get this composition!

VALAAM

The purpose of the boat trip, other than just a fun weekend away on a boat, was to visit the above mentioned island and it's famous monastery which is the focus of many a pilgrim in the Orthodox church.

LIFE ABOARD THE JOLLY ROGER

I don't actually know what the boat was called and if I did I probably couldn't translate it to English.

We arrived around 7.00 pm to discover we were absolutely the only foreigners on board and absolutely nobody spoke more than two words of our mother tongue, so with our limited amount of Russian it was always going to be a challenge.

However, we ascertained that we were booked onto the first sitting for our evening meal. We were allocated half an hour to complete our meal before we would be kicked out for the staff to prepare for the next sitting! Whilst waiting alongside a gaggle of very hungry Russians outside the restaurant for the doors to open and the gobble fest to begin on time, we contented ourselves by deciphering the menu. It told us the weight of the portions at the end of each item, for example, bread 100 grams, chicken, 120 grams, rice 50 grams etc.! A far cry from our trip around South East Asia on Sun Viking!

When the dining doors opened everyone fell in and ran to their tables. We were luckily in front of the window, hence the great photograph, and were able to watch from the dining table as the boat set sail. Two ladies were put on the table with us and we felt like alcoholics as they drank tea and we ordered a glass of wine each (we would have had a bottle but didn't have time at the table to drink it!) The women were very sweet but of course it is a bit awkward when one can't communicate and even more so when one tries! However, we did manage and even had a couple of laughs which was just as well as they sat with us for every meal during the weekend. I suppose we were lucky to have our own berth without being paired up.

MORE ABOUT THE FOOD

Let's just say it reminded me of when I was a child in post-war Britain, simple and cheap and cleverly improvised. I was delighted that every desert was enhanced with artificial cream which brought back memories of visits to the bakery with my Auntie Jessie who would always buy me a cake with this type of cream and I loved it and apparently I still do!

I must point out that this was not a 'cheap' weekend, at least not for us foreigners, as typically for Russia the boat company has a two tier price system, one price for them, another, considerably more expensive for foreigners. I may be wrong here but I don't think I have come across this system anywhere else in the world.

MANCHESTER UNITED V ST. PETERSBURG

Our cabin was just down the corridor from the television room where about 100 people were screaming with delight as St. Petersburg beat Manchester United. We didn't sleep well, the match was a late starter and we are two hours ahead Monaco (that's where they were playing).

VALAAM

We awoke to decent weather, which was extremely lucky as it had been raining all week. After a really strange porridge laced with butter and a couple of apple pancakes we set out on our first tour of the morning which was to be a walking tour. One thing I will say about this walking tour, other than the fact that it was very slow and that the scenery and air were lovely is that the guide could talk the hind legs off a donkey and of course we didn't have a clue what he could possibly be saying about the pine trees and the lakes that took so long. It was pleasant all the same.

After lunch we went on a smaller boat around the island to the monastery. Because we are not Orthodox it's significance was lost on me but one thing I will remember is all the monks. They have long, straggly grey hair, really dirty looking clothes and look just Rasputin did. I always associate religious followers with bodily cleanliness, seems I'm wrong. I get the whole simple poverty thing but..

All in all a good weekend. Although we couldn't talk with the people on the boat very much they were very warm and friendly, that is until it was time to disembark at the end of the weekend. It was back to pushing and barging as in the bread queues of the communist days, just to get off the boat and to the metro station! FUN FUN FUN!!!

BACK FROM SPAIN AND TIME FOR ANOTHER HIV TEST!

RETURN TO HOME!

Mike very boldly borrowed the company Land Rover Discovery (black with dark windows!) to collect me from the airport on my return from Spain. I was very impressed and would use this service again!

DON'T BUY FROZEN FOOD UNLESS YOU KNOW YOUR WAY HOME!

Glowing with the success of the airport meeting, the following day we ventured off to the supermarket and IKEA. IKEA is difficult enough at the best of times but to manage it in Russian is horrible! However, the big discovery that day for me was MARKS AND SPENCERS! Maybe this is a soft posting after all?

So far we remained empty handed so a trip to a hypermarket was essential. Having moved into the new flat with an empty freezer we purchased a lot of fodder to fill it. It was quite surprising to find that this huge establishment didn't accept any cards, credit nor debit. We had done a huge shop so were wiped out of cash.

The journey home was going quite well, until we couldn't turn left at the normal turn. We had to turn left at some point and drove on and on and .... I started to think we would be eating all our frozen food that evening, when fortunately we turned left.

DON'T BRIBE THE POLICE!

One of Mike's partners has told him never to try to bribe a policeman (as if Mike would!). However, that same partner said do carry 5,000 rubles around with you just in case you get stopped by the police whilst driving. Apparently, 5,000 (around £100) is about the most you will get charged and you may or may not get a receipt. Charged for what? You can get stopped for nothing and that happens all the time and you may not know why but you have to pay up to £100 but don't try and bribe them? I'm confused




MOVE TO ITALYANSKAYA 37/18 APARTMENT 5




Please note the new address but please don't send anything by post to that address. I may conduct a small experiment to see if things actually arrive by post but let me be the first to try!

As you can see from the above picture I have a really lovely apartment in a great position. I spend many a happy cup of tea in that front window watching the streets below. I can actually fit very nicely with my feet up into that window ledge and it's a great place to read and catch the sun (when it takes it's hat off that is). It's going to be fully furnished with cushions to sit and lean on.

THE WATER

Mike is the first up every week day morning and has the privilege of the first shower and the honour of drawing up the hot water. All the apartments are provided heating and hot water centrally. It is not the custom of the Russian people to rise early in the morning so he is probably the first to shower in the block. It is probable we are the only ones to shower as a part of our daily routine! It takes absolutely ages for the water to come through, sometimes about 10 minutes. Mike thinks he is drawing it from the other side of the river!

THE LIFT

Although the apartment is fab, I can't say the same for the courtyard and the hallways but I console myself with the fact that for St.Petersburg it's pretty good and we have a lift which is a real perk. This is not the most modern of lifts and a few weeks ago I could not imagine that I would be entering solo without fear, however, now I don't even think twice. Apparently, the average amount of time to be stuck in a lift in St.Petersburg is 30 minutes so .... I always make sure I visit the bathroom before leaving home and hope for the best.

STORAGE SOLUTIONS

We have a restaurant in our block. They have decided to store some old and huge pieces of ventilator shaft right outside our entrance way! There are three pieces, each the size of a small car, stacked on top of each other to the left of our doorway. It's unbelievable that nobody seems to care! I have mentioned it to our landlady and she said she will complain about it but doesn't think she will get anywhere. I am planning to talk to the manager of the restaurant about it but haven't plucked up the courage yet! Ridiculous! The cats seem to have made a home in them so at least they are happy!

CATS

There are cats everywhere. Some really beautiful creatures. People seem to look after all the cats in the town very well and I haven't seen any hungry ones.

THE BINS

These are pretty grotty and there is no way to recycle which feels awful except that there is a woman (I think she is a woman), who looks like one of the very poor people of the dark ages who seems to spend some time at the bins sorting the stuff out so hopefully she gets something out of them that she can recycle in some way. She must be residing somewhere in our block or she wouldn't get to the bins which just shows how mixed the area is.

ANATOLE

I heard our bell ring the other day. I took a look through the spyhole and saw an old man standing there who I didn't know, so following the rules of survival in Russia, I didn't answer the door. So I heard another, then another ring, then four rings. I decided to take my life into my hands and answer.

This very kind faced elderly gentleman tried to tell me something which I didn't understand. He then started to pull me outside! I was so confused but realised I could knock him over if I wanted to so I allowed myself to be pulled. It turned out that he was trying to show me the fact that my keys were in the outside of the door! We had accidentally left them hanging there and seeing as though everybody says you should lock your door when you are inside your apartment this was quite a vulnerable situation and this gentleman was worried for me! He introduced himself as Anatole and he lives opposite with his family (in about 30 square metres).
Anatole is out and about every day. I see him chatting to various vendors on Italyanskaya and more worryingly waving his stick at the traffic and crossing the roads regardless of whether they stop for him or not. He is a really nice old man and I wish I could hear about his history. I bet he was here during the siege of Leningrad.

THE NEW CLEANER

Tanya has come to me by way of our landlady. This woman is a human dynamo. She moves so fast and has an unsettling amount of energy. She makes me feel completely inadequate in terms of my ability to clean. This is a happy state of affairs and a good arrangement.

HARRODS FOOD HALL OF ST.PETE'S

I am delighted to discover that I am living a pleasant 7 minute walk from the best little supermarket in the city. It has just about everything I could need and more. It's going to be possible to eat well after all. I will be very strong if I continue to shop in the markets having discovered this shop.

CUSTOMER SERVICE - NOT!

Yesterday, having arrived at the checkout of my new wonder market, the checkout girl pointed out that I hadn't weighed my mushrooms. Two points here, firstly, instead of calling one of the many assistants standing around doing nothing she expected me to go myself but before I went she insisted that I handed over from the trolley all the remaining items to go through the checkout. Second point, when I returned she was sitting smiling and my stuff was sitting waiting for me to pack into bags! I calmly packed my bags whilst she sat impatiently waiting for me to pay. I hoped that she might have realised it would have been a good idea to help me but I doubt she gave it a second thought. Oh well, I suppose you can't expect customer service as well as a wonder market.

MY PURSE, YOUR PURSE

One very strange custom amongst the shop assistants here is that if you don't hand over the correct money and they ask you if you have a particular amount e.g. a 100 note and you say you're not sure and you are looking, they think nothing of delving their own hands into your purse and looking themselves! I don't really mind and I am sure they are only trying to be helpful but it seems a little forward and makes it difficult to lie if you are trying to keep a 100 note for some other purpose (then you have to sort of hide the contents whilst looking through without her getting her hands in there!). Also the next person in the queue gets to see the extravagant amount of money in a foreigner's purse!

FAREWELL UNTIL SEPTEMBER!

Just a little blog today. I leave for Spain tomorrow and return at the end of August. It`s going to be fun to see the family in Spain and enjoy the sunshine, sea and sangria but I leave St.Petersburg with a tinge of regret as I feel I am just getting to grips with the City and fear I will have to start all over on my return. Ah well, the hardships of life!

PETERHOF

As it was the last day available for a trip, we decided to go to Peterhof yesterday. It was a perfect sunny and calm day for a hydrofoil trip down the Neva.

After 40 minutes we arrived at Peterhof only to find a very long queue for tickets to the park. These are the tickets you have to purchase before being able to get near the palace only to queue again for tickets for the palace. In fact at Peterhof you have to queue for separate tickets for everything and to make it more annoying it is actually quite expensive.

I would not feel quite so annoyed about the price if everyone paid the same, however, in Russia, there is a different, usually about three times higher price for foreigners. Why should foreigners pay more?

Putting these feelings behind us (we had plenty of time to do that whilst waiting in these interminable queues) we enjoyed the palace and gardens but decided that although Peterhof is by far the most famous of the outlying palaces it is not the greatest to visit. We enjoyed Tvarski Selo much more.

A WONDERFUL TOILET VISIT

I had a wonderful loo experience. After paying fifty pence I took my place in the queue only to be yelled at by the toilet cleaner who was annoyed at anyone who went near her bucket. It was difficult not to annoy her because her bucket was placed in the entrance to the cubicles and she was trying to insist that we lined up on one side of her bucket. These women in the queue actually allowed this bloody woman to boss them around! I was having none of it and after my turn in the loo I made sure I gave her bucket a kick to the side as I passed. She was hurling abuse at me as I left with a smile! I am learning to deal with these people!

All in all I think it would be better to choose a day that was not a Saturday at the height of the tourist season to visit Peterhof!

FAREWELL FOR THE SUMMER!

POLICEMEN AND BRIBES, WHOOPS I MEAN BRIDES

I thought the shot of the Hermitage was rather jolly. The other is a shot of the street where we live at present but not for much longer.

THE POLICEMAN`S LOT IS NOT A HAPPY ONE

It is quite difficult to know who is a policeman and who is not. I am convinced there are people who walk around this town dressed up as such just because once upon a time they had a uniform. Those are the most scary. You would think I could tell by the age of the uniform but unfortunately this is not so. Some police officers just look plain scruffy and not very professional. There are traffic police and another type or two all with different roles. There are a lot of them who seem to have little to do but stroll around the parks and public spaces. Their presence should be a comfort but I find it rather unsettling. I feel they would not do very much if they saw you being attacked but that they may apprehend you for doing absolutely nothing but minding your own business.

I have been told not to go anywhere without identification but not the original because it might get stolen and never hand over original documents to the police themselves! What!?

I was sitting in the summer gardens yesterday, minding my own business and reading a book. It was a beautiful day and I do not have a balcony at the flat. I am a middle aged woman dressed in a conventional manner with a Laura Ashley bag and sensible shoes, reading Nicholas and Alexandra on a park bench in the sunshine when along comes a policeman who stands right in front of me (am I allowed to read the above-mentioned book in Russia?), weighs me and the situation up and then walks away. I have to say my heart was in my mouth, I really thought he was going to ask me what I was doing there! He had a cosh in his hand and handcuffs and a gun in his back pocket. I hardly dared to look up until he walked off! Is this just a park keeper?

When I had lunch with the ladies the other day in Gatchina, we set up our picnic in the park on the steps of an old folly of sorts. A policeman came up to us and stood looking at our picnic before telling the Russian lady amongst us to leave as soon as we finished! Had our Russian lady not been there I think we would have offered him a chicken leg and a glass of champagne but we felt she would think it inappropriate.

ANTI-INTERROGATION CARD

This is the coolest thing I have ever had in my life and I intend to frame it when I leave Russia. If you have any trouble with officials or police or anybody, you pull out the card and call the 24 hour service and they send a minder (well, someone) out to you to deal with the problem! Quite an enterprising business idea!

Part of me really wants something to happen so I can use this facility and part of me thinks it might not work!

BRIDES EVERYWHERE!

It must be because it`s summer. This has to be the most romantic city in the world. Although I have been told that the guys don`t keep up the romance once married.

Having been made man and wife, they cruise the city with all their guests in limousines and with copious amounts of alcohol and have photos taken at every famous monument in the city. There are loads of these so by the time the guests have been dragged around all of them they look pretty much past their best! You see about fifty brides per day at the moment and many empty champagne bottles around the town. It astonishes me that all these smartly dressed people don`t take their empties away with them. They have a way to go in that respect.

GOSTINY DVOR

This is an experience of a shopping centre. It is really huge and houses just about every type of shop imaginable and is all indoors. I remember visiting this when I was here in about 1980. At that time there was absolutely nothing available and all the tinned food had plain labels just with the name of the content, e.g. peas. I can remember being amazed that this huge shopping palace had all the shops selling exactly the same items. All the clothes were the same in all the shops and the tinned food (because that was all there was) was piled up to make it look attractive but it was all the same! It really is wonderful to see Gostiny Dvor today, a symbol of devotion to consumerism.

PALACES AND BEACHES

One thing I knew coming to this city was that I was going to see a lot of palaces here but one thing I did not expect was the beach.

TSARSKOE SELO AND THE AMBER ROOM

Having started to read the story of Nicholas & Alexandra, I was very interested to visit the above mentioned town and it`s palaces.

We do not have a car so the only way to get to Tsarskoe Selo which is about 35 km out of town was by public transport. First metro then bus. There are several different types of buses here. Some have specific places they stop and others have a route they follow and you flag them down wherever you want and then shout when you want to get off. Good if a) you know where you want to get off and b) if you know what to shout. We knew neither of these things but jumped on one anyway.

People were helpful but it seemed they did not know where we should get off, resulting in our disembarking according to several passengers advice and then, at the driver`s insistence, getting back on! We eventually got to the palaces and park. This was greatly rewarded with a tour of the Catherine Palace and gardens and obviously the most famously, recently newly reconstructed, Amber Room. Now that is another book to read. It was all too much to see in one visit and there is still the Alexander palace to see as that is the one where Nicky and Alexi actually lived!

THE BEACH!

Mike and his ordinance survey map found us on a good old walk on Sunday from our present abode to the beach! A real sand beach, one of a few on the City`s islands. Krestovski Island is clearly a favourite of Mr. Putin`s as he has a home there. We didn`t find it this time but we will! We took a beer sitting in a bar on the beach and watched people play volley ball and racing up and down on jet skis, barbecuing and sunbathing. If I closed my eyes, I could have been in Marbella. There were even showers and loos. Across the water we could see the yacht club and several very nice boats alongside it. Clearly the place for the not so badly off. This will be visited again on a nice sunny day with a picnic and some sunblock! I`m not sure I would swim there although people seem happy to do so.

PRETTY GIRLS

There are only about three months of the year during which time the girls of the City can be seen without their coats on so I like to think that this is why their choice of clothing is so wacky, wild and rather more than a little revealing. If you are going to `bag a man` this is the time of year to do it!

I admire the skill they need to walk around all day in extremely high heels. I have been told that they also wear these heels in the winter. Apparently, the heels work well as sort of crampons that can be dug into the icy sidewalks.

GATCHINA

Yesterday saw me at a quilting exhibition hosted by the town of Gatchina, about an hour away from the City. Not being into quilting, I saw this as an opportunity to take a look at another town. It was a surprise to be blown over by the artistry of the work on display. What was wonderful was that some of the works were clearly made by scraps of material collected from old clothes etc. and not bought pieces from specialist shops.

This exhibition was in three locations. The first location we visited was in a tiny hamlet inside a village hall. They made us very welcome and when I needed to visit a loo I was escorted to another building, down several corridors to an extremely grim toilet with magazines for loo paper, where the escort, equally grim, waited patiently for me to pee before escorting me back! Loo visits are quite often exciting here!

The second location was in a small town, in an enormous neo classic style building, very run down but with incredible chandeliers and a really wonky parquet floor.

The third was the best. This was in a concrete, communist building which housed a lot of leatherette sofas, slashed and torn and a huge, magnificent mosaic of Lenin along with some wonderful symbols of the era. I hope I come across a lot of stuff like this because I think it is becoming more rare.

BLOG FODDER 2

SHOCKING

There are a lot of bare and dangerous electric wires around this city, even in heavily populated tourist parts.

BARKING

There are a lot of stray dogs in the parks. They are all of the large variety. However, they seem to spend most of the time sleeping and don`t seem to bother people at all, not even for food. Perhaps they are being well fed. They are not in bad condition. I will try to learn more about
them.

PULPING

A lot of expats here are involved in the paper pulping industry. One of my new friends who`s husband is so employed gave me a great tip. I don`t think it`s related to her husband`s industry but still.. When she has papers she wants to dispose of that have sensitive information on them, e.g. bank statements etc., she soaks them until they become mush! I never thought of that, it`s brilliant! One could make a sort of paper mache sculpture of it all.

LOST IN TRANSLATION

According to the St.Petersburg Times, our weekly English translated newspaper, a lot of new swimming pools are being constructed in St.Petersburg`s `bedroom communities`. Do they mean `dormitory towns`?!

In a German style restaurant visited at the weekend I was amused to note the reserved tables had a little sign on saying `this land is conquered`. A little strong I thought!

BLOGGER FODDER

BUYING A BOOK

It sounds like a fairly simple process. You walk in, browse and choose and pay and leave. Not in Russia!

First, I browsed. I found a book about the lives of the last Tsars. Super. I go to the counter with the book. The young lady tells me I can`t buy it there but that she will write a chit with the price and I will take the chit to the far side of the shop, pay, then return to her at the other end of the shop and she will check the receipt and give me the book. I did all of this happily and a little amused. She nearly had a fit when I put my receipt into my purse and not in the bag containing my purchase. `no! no!` it MUST go in there with the book!` I suppose this may be the preferred place for my receipt to prove I had not stolen the book, however, I was the only customer in the shop and the only people who would see me leave without paying would be her and the cashier and they had taken my money from me! They were hardly likely to chase me into the street to check if I had paid! I suppose old habits die hard.

IN THE STREET

There are some very unfortunate people on the streets begging for money. This is not unusual in any big City but they are amongst the more desperate I have seen, and that includes in India.

There is one lovely old lady who looks at least 100 years old. She is clean and she wears traditional peasant type clothes. She has a face full of character and as wrinkled as a very old prune. I imagine she has had a really tough life, WW2, the siege of Leningrad, communism etc. and there she is, day in and day out, hoping for some kindness from the passers by.

It seems dreadful that this generation who have suffered so much and have been thrown into this capitalist society of the modern world, who don`t stand a chance of being able to pay for themselves (any savings they had were completely and totally worthless after the fall of communism, through no fault of their own) are not looked after.

A WALK TO THE OFFICE

Mike suggested I walked with him to his office and he would show me another market and a shopping area. He actually has quite a long walk, more than I had realised across to Vasilyevskiy Island, however he likes it and it is good exercise. It won`t be possible during the long winter months so he is making the most of it now.

A BIGGER CHICKEN BREAST PLEASE

Deciding to use my `market Russian` I thought I had asked for the biggest saddle (the two breasts with the bone intact) of chicken. I realised later that what I actually asked for was a bigger saddle. Just a small difference, bigger - biggest, but enough to make her look at me as if to say, `how big would you expect the breast of a chicken to be?`

THEY MUST BE KIDDING!

The tomatoes looked good. Very large and juicy so I asked for two. They asked me for 200 roubles. That is about two pounds per tomato. I left without them. All the fruit and vegetables are expensive but sometimes I get the feeling I am being taken for an idiot. It is going to be expensive to eat healthily here but you cannot put a price on health. Why did I not get those tomatoes after all?

I have noticed that the fresh food markets are very quiet. The locals cannot afford them. There are a lot of cosseted foreigners with interpreters and drivers and people who are sent by the more wealthy local residents to do the shopping for them but not many people like me! I could use interpreters and drivers but what would I write about?!

CRUISE SHIPS

It is a wonderful walk back from Mike`s office, along the embankment of the Neva. The big cruise ships park down that end of St.Petersburg. They could not come up any further because although the bridges lift at night for an hour or so, the ships are too big and there is nowhere for them to park. I think this is a blessing. It is quite interesting to see them when there are as many as four huge ones in town. I know some of our friends will be arriving in St.Petersburg by ship! It is certainly an interesting way to arrive and you get a 48 hour pass without the need of a visa which saves a lot of hassle.

Walking around the City it is really easy to spot the ones who have come off a ship. So beware, the pickpockets can tell too!

THE PASTRY SHOP

Around the corner from our service flat is the most famous pastry house in St. Petersburg. Fortunately, I am not big on pastry but they look wonderful. You can buy a Salmon Pie I discovered today. Guess what we are having for dinner tomorrow.

A STEP INTO THE OTHER SIDE

NOTHING TO BUY

I have never been into a supermarket before and left without buying a single item. However, that is exactly what I did yesterday! There was nothing fanciable at all and this was in the new supermarket!

RIDICULOUSLY GORGEOUS RESTAURANT

So it was quite a lovely treat last night to go to just about the best restaurant in the City. After my fruitless search (I didn`t try too hard I must admit) for something fresh to buy, it was perfect that we had such a wonderful meal last night which should keep me going for the rest of the week. The restaurant sits above a casino and a large designer shop and has been serving the rich and famous for more than 200 years (what were we doing there?)

There is a first time for everything and for me I have never been through a metal detector in order to enter a restaurant before. What does that tell you about the rich and famous here? You can only imagine. At least we were able to enjoy our evening without fear of anything metal being undetected. I must admit when I first saw the detector I thought we were supposed to walk through it on the way out in case we had tried to steal the cutlery!

The food was wonderful, although it didn`t resemble anything I thought I had ordered but then it was very posh. I was given a cradle in which to place my (rather ordinary) handbag. Mike remarked that I should be careful that nobody ties it with string and drags it across the floor and away!

After a lovely evening we finally left, avoiding the metal detector on the way out, the stolen cutlery in our pockets remaining undetected! Kidding of course.

THE BLACK WINDOWED LIMOUSINES

Our company last night was a very charming man and his wife who happens to be CEO of a very important business here. After seeing me change my shoes for the walk home he was rather embarrassed to be met by not just a driver but also a bodyguard. When he saw my expression, he reassured me by explaining that he was very unlikely to be threatened physically but it is not unusual for people such as he to be led into a black windowed, nearby limousine for a spontaneous `business meeting`. A very nice way to put it, I thought.

It also occurred to me that perhaps we misunderstand the Russian `businessman`. After all, this CEO may be difficult to make an appointment with and the Russian `businessman` is very proud of his status and particularly his black windowed limousine and perhaps likes to use it as a sort of mobile office. He might possibly think it is quite an honour to be invited for a meeting inside his car!

REALITY CHECK

Yes well, back to normal today. I knew there was a weekly walk arranged every Wednesday morning by the International Women's Club so I thought I would go to the designated meeting place under the Pushkin statue and see what happened. Nothing happened. I wasn`t surprised and was quite prepared with map in hand to have a good old walk about by myself.

This was a good opportunity to find the food market over the side of town where I am going to be living after August. I got completely lost. The map was useless to me because it was in English and all the town signs are in Cyrillic. I didn`t have my specs with me either so couldn't see the map anyway. Nevsky Prospect is the biggest road in St.Petersburg but all the others looked pretty damned the same to me!

GOLD TEETH

I felt quite proud when I finally found the market. I bought some cherries as a reward from a man with a complete set of gold teeth. He was smiling brilliantly with his expensive mouth glowing as I paid a huge amount of money for my cherries! Not surprising he can afford gold teeth. Georgians love gold teeth.