Tuesday, 8 July 2008

A VISIT TO THE GEORGIAN MARKET




Just a couple of scenes at the Georgian market and a picture of my three new friends. Is it my imagination or is Nicky (the one in the middle) trying to Nick a watermelon?

MORE HEALTH TESTS



This is Mike posing before the Church of the Spilt blood. The other is me and several balloons on a river trip at about 11.30 p.m. heading towards the Gulf of Finland.
The title of this blog is referring to the fact that we have been today for a further HIV test. This is Mike`s third and my second. If the visa thing is not sorted within a given time frame we have to have a further test!

BITS AND BOBS


Just to show you that we make too much fuss about health and safety in the UK. What is the problem with going through this tunnel onto the main river?

I don`t think it really matters that the commentary was in Russian and that this is a tour boat with a lot of people who don`t speak Russian. I guess she probably told us to duck down a little bit but I was too busy standing backwards taking a photo down river to try to interpret. Fortunately I turned around in time to take this shot and avoid having my head left behind as a decoration on the bridge!

Well, I thought you might enjoy that one! This is not a trick photograph, it really was that low!


BACK TO THE AIRPORT!
I forgot to mention that when we returned to St.Pete`s after our lovely few days in Monte Carlo we experienced what I think we have to get used to at the airport.
A couple of large aircraft arrived just before us meaning that the queues for passport control were rather long to say the least. This situation was not improved by the fact that the controllers like to read each passport from cover to cover before begrudgingly letting you into their country.
We had a gaggle of about 25 school girls from Greece in front of us who`s teacher had not had the foresight to make them fill in their landing cards on the plane. As they were writing them out all over the place in front of us, we decided it was a good time to slip in front of them from behind a post! We are not queue jumpers generally but have decided that in Russia, its the only way. Unfortunately, it didn`t go unnoticed either from the girls nor the security. As the man in uniform came up to us to tell us to step back in line, we completely ignored him and pretended we didn`t understand and said in English (he didn`t understand either) that the girls should have filled in their forms on the plane like everyone else and they were holding us up unreasonably (this was true). He didn`t actually care so we continued to the background noise of boos and hissing, quite embarrassing really but I would do it again!
Considering that the above mentioned controls result in people coming through passport control at about one per every two or three minutes, wouldn`t you think they would simplify the system and also delay the luggage to stop it from piling up on the carousel eventually spilling onto the floor. This is clearly not a problem for them but only for the really tired and frustrated people coming to visit their town who have to shift through to hopefully find their bags intact. I hope this was a one off!
A MOSCOW TALE
This seems like a fairly negative blog so far today but I have one more to tell before I get back to some positivity. This was told to me by someone I met over the weekend who lives in Moscow.
A friend of hers is expecting a baby in about 4 weeks. A week or so ago the landlady informed her that now there is going to be an extra person in the flat that she wants another 1,000 euros per month. Do I need to say anymore on that one?!




PHOTO!

Hopefully, if you scroll around this whole blog site you will find a couple of photos. One is of the current hallway in the service apartment and the other is a picture of the building in which we are going to live from 22nd August.

Monday, 7 July 2008

A TRIP TO PARADISE AND BACK!

COTE D`AZURE, VERY NICE

I wasn`t going to mention trips away from my new life in Russia BUT then I decided that seeing as though I will probably be the number one reader and I would like not to forget these trips, I would plough ahead regardless.

We arrived at Nice airport at around 10.30 p.m. in a very original way. Our plane (we came in from Zurich) was surrounded by fire engines. Quite exciting if you could get off and watch from the distance but not so when you are told the brakes were smoking but, thankfully, cooling down, and that for safety purposes to remain seated until the crises passes. All is well that turns out well, however, our luggage was equally slow to emerge and therefore we arrived at the Fairmont Hotel in Monte Carlo just in the nick of time to down two stiff gins and tonics with the diehard remainder of the crowd before retiring for a very late night.

I would like to point out that I don`t usually go to bed on two stiff gins and tonics but this was necessary training for the three days and nights to come.

The following morning Mike went off to the meeting and I assembled with some other `spouses` (still about 99 percent women regardless of the modern age we live in) to be taken off to a cookery lesson with Sebastien Paoletti.

The venue was absolutely lovely in the hills, surrounded by beautiful scenery. We were to cook our own lunch having been shown by Sebastien (gorgeous) Paoletti how to do it. This was great for the young Russian wives who were relishing the opportunity to show off to Mr. Paoletti how well they chop and fry whilst still managing to look very sexy but I can honestly say that most of us slightly more mature women were very happy to watch them showing off whilst we gabbed away about what great cooks we are and how we would happily be there without the cookery bit. Still it was a great ambiance and the lunch on the terrace after was great fun.

Feeling a little too relaxed after lunch, we ventured by bus up to St Paul de Vince, a hilltop village for a short visit before returning to the hotel in time for a quick shower before dinner! Dinner was at the Top Cars Museum (one for the boys). I was lucky to have a go in a simulated drive of the Monte Carlo race route, sitting in what seemed like a real racing car with a huge screen in front, it felt very real, except my spectacular crashes. It seems to me that the course is very tight!

This was my first opportunity to meet the expat wives of other Deloitte partners who also live in Russia, mainly in Moscow and Kiev and ask them how they manage. Mostly, they were all quite positive so that was encouraging.

The following day a small group of us ladies walked around the town and up to and around the Grimaldi palace during the morning after which we met up with our husbands for the afternoon tour of Chateau de Cremat to sample the wines and enjoy the scenery. The evening`s entertainment was dinner and dancing at the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel, where we also enjoyed a few fully clothed diving demonstrations from a few of the younger Russian partners. The more exhibitionist Russian wives saw this as a great opportunity to have a sort of unofficial wet t-shirt competition along with an `oh dear, can you really see my sexy underwear which is barely there under my wet white trousers since I fell in the pool?` competition. Needless to say, I didn`t join in with this one. It seems to me that the Russians really know how to have a great party!

Saturday was spent cruising on a very large catamaran up the coastline and back. This was very relaxing and as usual there was plenty to eat and drink. There were only fifteen people on each boat so it was possible to really chill out in preparation for yet another evening of champagne and frolics! This was a much more sophisticated evening than the previous one and 90,000 euros was raised for charity during the course of the dinner!

It was a wonderful gift from Deloittes after only being in Russia for one week to actually be invited on a fab freebie like that but it has to be said that after all the over indulgence of the past four days I was quite happy to return to St.Pete`s yesterday, back to foraging around the town to get a meal together, which is better for my figure! Not to mention all the walking!

HALLWAYS

It was quite a come down to return to our present home to find half the wall of the entrance hall with bricks showing and a huge gap where the plaster has either been knocked off or fallen off, accompanied by a rather unpleasant smell. Well, it`s not gas or mould so I won`t worry too much and it`s not inside my flat so it only bothers me when I venture out. I guess this must be the attitude of most Russian people, just shut the door on it and don`t worry, which would explain why the plaster and dust is all over the floor and stairs and nobody has cleared it up. If it`s still there tomorrow I might set an example but I am rather hoping it won`t be. Of course, the other option I have is to get the bloody property agent to sort it out! Well thought out Susan, after all we are only paying them about 200 euros a night for the privilage of being here!

BEAUTIFUL HOUSEKEEPER LOOKING FOR JOB

Well, it may be unethical to put out an advert but after meeting my cleaning lady about four times she has finally plucked up the courage to give me a hand written note in English which her friend has written out for her saying that what she is actually looking for is an opportunity for her and her 14 year old son to go and live in London. She says it`s her dream. She is looking for something well paid preferably in my home in London (I don`t have one but I didn`t like to disillusion her) where she hopes to fall in love (she doesn`t want Russian man, don`t know why) and have a good life.

I admire her honesty! I think she would have preferred to give this note to Mike but was quite happy to give it to me. Mike would recommend her. He likes the way she comes to work in her `party clothes` and can`t understand why I have never employed a cleaning lady as pretty as this one before. So if anyone is looking for a ur.... housekeeper, this is your chance although you may have to sort out a visa for her or marry her but otherwise... no problem, oh.... except, don`t forget she comes with a 14 year old son and we all know what they can be like!

Tuesday, 1 July 2008

BITS AND BOBS

Well, I`ve been here a week now and I must admit to it having felt like quite a long one! I guess that is because of all the new information that is necessary to take in at this stage just so it`s possible to get by. I am sure all these things become second nature but in the meantime it is quite exhausting. It doesn`t help that everything is written in Cyrillic. I am getting used to that but it means just, for example to work out where a particular shop is that might sell shampoo is an effort.

GETTING AROUND

We have not yet ventured out to the big supermarket on the edge of town. That would mean Mike borrowing the Range Rover from the Firm (we may buy it, not sure) or using the driver who is at Mike`s disposal as is required during working hours and we are going to come to an arrangement to use him out of working hours BUT all this takes time and even MORE time in Russia!

So in the meantime, town shopping will suffice. We don`t really want to do a big shop until we move into our apartment anyway. The driver will also be at my disposal when I need but that can all wait until September. It seems to me it is a lot quicker getting around the town any other way than driving so it`s not worth it unless you are covering some distance and carrying a lot of stuff.

ABOUT TOWN

There are many small supermarkets scattered around the town. There is a new one just opened around the corner from this flat. I was disappointed to see that it was exactly the same model as all the others. Tescos could do very well with their Tesco Express model here. I am sure it won`t be too long before the gap is filled in the market but in the meantime...... How can they honestly believe that people want to buy a two week old leek? AND I know next week it will still be there as a three week old leek! This is reminiscent of the Czech Republic when we arrived there in 1994 and it is interesting to see that St.Petersburg is behind. Maybe it`s a different story in Moscow.

Having said that, it is rather amusing to see the range of stuff for sale, some recognisable and some definitely not, still there is no accounting for taste. In one supermarket a lady stands handing out small polythene bags to anyone wanting to buy fresh (fresh?) veg. I don`t think she rations them but I believe in the West we have a little stand that does the job very nicely. It would be really nice if she could give the odd smile, it could even cheer up her day! I try to avoid her because I think she is deeply suspicious that I might try to steal a frozen pigs trotter.

On the subject of freezers, I think the freezers are cold enough because they have to be to function, however, the chilled food sections are quite often not chilled enough. I picked up some butter from one and it was ready to spread very nicely. Some of these cabinets don`t even seem chilled. I don`t think they don`t work I just think it is a way of economising. Bit dodgy. Happily I am aware of this now and will take care not to buy any meat products that don`t seem well chilled. Actually I will probably just buy stuff in the fresh food market or in the big supermarket.

It is a bit of a pain that the tap water is not drinkable. It seems different people have different opinions on this. I have met a very sensible British lady (you know who you are!) who just filters it and uses it, she doesn`t have any problems, although having said this, she is now pregnant. What does that say about the water? I think I will stick to the bottled variety.

It has to be said that an awful lot of strongly coloured bubble bath is required to disguise the muddy colour when a bath is filled.

STUFFED ANIMALS

It seems in Russia that not only is the fur coat still a `must have` for anyone who`s anyone but also they are rather partial to stuffed animals.

I have come across two or three shops selling stuffed animals ranging from quite small, beavers, birds, the odd lynx right up to a massive tiger. There was a severe note written, funnily enough in English, saying not to take photographs. I guess they don`t want the ` save the blah blah from extinction ´brigade onto them, but really it is rather strange. I suppose it means that if you are rich (these shops are in wealthy shopping centres) you don`t have to have a history of game hunting, you can buy one.

THE ROADS

My observation of the roads after my first week is that is very dangerous to cross them without concentration and even then you had better watch out! Some russians don`t feel the need to stop at pedestrian crossings when the little green man is showing so you can`t feel secure even there. I have come across some very selfish driving around europe but never have I come across cars that deliberately drive through pedestrian crossings on red whilst people are crossing. It`s ok so long as you know! It`s not necessarily the ones in the Mercedes with the blackened windows either.

On Saturday at around two in the morning, there was the start of two different races in the palace square, one was a cycle race and the other was a roller blade race. There were literally hundreds of them pouring through the streets of the town all together. Quite a sight but impossible to get through them to cross the road to get to the flat and to bed!

FIRST TRIP OUT OF RUSSIA ALREADY!

Luckily for me, Mike`s firm have arranged a partners meeting in Monte Carlo to which the spouses are invited. We leave tomorrow for 5 days. I am looking forward to this immensely and hope I equally look forward to my return to St.Petersburg next Monday!

Next posting will be next week!

Monday, 30 June 2008

WEEKEND AND WHITE NIGHTS

BOUNTIFUL BOAT TRIP

As my first social event in St.Pete`s on the Friday night `business party` boat trip I wasn`t really expecting to scoop up all the prizes but that is more or less what happened! Well that was the icing on the cake of a very pleasant evening cruising up and down and around the Neva and eventually down to the Gulf of Finland (sounds a long way but really it isn`t) It provided a great opportunity to take advantage of the long `white night` and it`s special light to take some good photos.

The party crowd were mainly Russians and rather young at that, however, I met a Finnish guy who`s wife and he have a house just down the road from us in Marbella and more coincidentally I met a lady who, like me has just arrived in town from Zagreb! She is not, unfortunately, going to have a lot of time to spare as she has come to set up Belgium`s first consulate here. She was the Ambassador to Belgium in Zagreb. She is great fun and I am sure we will be seeing her again.

On the subjects of boats, we have decided to take a two night cruise in late August on a Russian cruise line to Valaam. Being Russia, booking something like this requires a certain amount of wit and a lot of time. We found the booking office after a long metro ride down to the part of the river where the river boats sail from. This was a good exercise for when we actually take the trip as we now know where to go!

The actual booking of this trip should not be newsworthy and indeed it isn`t accept I wanted to remember the 8 page contract which Mike had to sign twice over, yes 16 times! Of course, we have absolutely no idea what we were signing but one would have thought that paying with a credit card, the full amount up front would be enough to let them know you were pretty serious about keeping your side of the bargain! I think we may have signed a sort of guarantee of good behaviour. Glad I didn`t put my name to that!

THE UNSUCCESSFUL PICKPOCKET

We were aware that people that hang around the exits of metro stations are not always waiting to meet their babushka and help her home with the shopping and we are aware that however much we try, we don`t look Russian and are a tad more vulnerable than most to the odd pickpocket looking for opportunities.

Having successfully left the metro, turned the corner onto a busy street we found ourselves between roadworks on one side and an ice cream vendor on the other, the perfect environment for two tall guys to squeeze Mike in on both sides, quite heavily, making a sort of a jam and pretending Mike was in the way. His arms were pinned down by his sides and that is when the third man, operating from behind went in his pocket. Of course, Mike being Mike, he was wearing his burglar proof rohans, zipped inside pocket ha ha! It all happened so fast that it was difficult to decide what was actually happening and although I was behind all of this I didn`t shout out or anything. Even though I know these things happen I didn`t catch on quickly.

Luckily for us they realized we were getting too much time to recognise them so they gave up and pretended all they were trying to do was turn back to the ice cream vendor (he`s probably getting his cut!) Mike`s zip was half undone so we are sure it really happened.

This has been a good experience as now we will be totally aware. I feel like taking a nice little pin with me when I travel on the metro in case anyone dares try that on me, oooh a pin in the bum would shock them!

BALLET AND BRIDGES

Just to show the B..yyVVV@@@. they didn`t frighten us, we returned the same route that evening, dressed up nicely to go to the ballet and we walked with `attitude` . This is something I will have to do a lot here, walk with attitude. We were rewarded with a wonderful evening of entertainment. Spartacus was spectacular. The colours were nothing short of amazing and the cast huge. It`s the music which the theme to The Onedon Line was taken from. Wonderful and moving.

It`s essential when spending time in the summer in St.Petersburg to see the bridges go up at 1.30 a.m and to drink in the atmosphere. So we went to bed for a couple of hours and got up again at 1.00 to go out and join the merry throng. Walking towards the main river we saw several midnight boat cruises on the canals making their way to the main bridge in time to have a great view.

I am not sure why the bridges going up is so special but it is a focus for celebration and Russians and tourists alike enjoy the atmosphere and the fireworks and free shows etc. There are so many people around at that time it`s difficult to remember it`s the middle of the night. Around 2.00 a.m it is clear that dawn is arriving having just recently experience sunset. The nights are drawing in now though!

KRONSTADT

On Sunday we took a Mike Allen exploratory public transport trip to Kronstadt. Quite an important historic place during the Revolution and is a naval town. It was however, more about the journey itself which included metros, buses, a ferry and a train, leaving little time to explore the town. This is a place that deserves a full day outing. We found the ordinary Russian people very friendly and helpful. The ones who aren`t trying to nick your wallet are very nice!

We arrived at the dock well in time to catch the ferry back to the mainland but were sent back to a park with a little wooden hut to get the tickets! By the time we ran there of course there was a queue, however, we were lucky and caught the ferry, which goes only every two hours. Several people behind us were not so lucky. Why don`t they sell the tickets in the ferry port? One can only imagine it would be too easy.

One interesting comparison is the price of the bus trip which was about 45 minutes long, about 30km and the price of a visit to a loo on arrival. Both cost 15 roubles! The state heavily subsidises public transport but clearly not public loos! 15 roubles is about 20p. I couldn`t tell a Russian that it cost 4 pounds to take a bus ride between Ambleside and Grasmere!